LAND ROVER FREELANDER GS S-WAGON 2001, Auto, 12 mth MOT

May 26, 2011 – 10:36

Landrover Freelander
GS S-Wagon

ONLY £2,800

5 Door
Air Conditioning
Excellent Towing Power
Low Mileage – only 68,059 miles
Service History
MOT until 22nd May 2012
Head Gaskets Replaced (with fully reconditioned cylinder heads)
Cam Belt Replaced
Water Pump Replaced
Thermostat Replaced
New Front Brake Discs and Pads

If you’re looking for a car for work, for the family, a bit of weekend adventure and  a whole lot of fun – here it is!

This is a superb Freelander. It looks good, feels agile, goes well (when you put your foot down this Freelander really moves!), nicely finished and well equipped. You can understand why they have become the ultimate in flexible motoring – toughness, durability, comfort and elegant style all wrapped into one car. Not only that but you have an ideal workhorse due to its toughness and the fitted tow bar; a perfect family car with plenty of space; a great tourer due to it being so incredibly comfortable – it is the most comfortable vehicle I have ever driven – AND a great toy! (Although I always thought these cars are too nice to get it dirty!)

This vehicle is hugely capable and highly desirable – on the motorway it just cruises beautifully, and on the small roads it’s handling is just right – not too touchy, not too insensitive, it feels solid on the road.

The driving position – I love being sat up higher than most vehicles – gives you nearly no blind spots, loads of leg room both in the front and the back – your rear passengers will feel as though they’re in a limo!

At the wheel of this vehicle you feel a little set apart – and not only because of the high driving position, and the fact that all your friends are envious! The detail touches help. The way the window at the rear goes down so you can load your shopping without having to open the back door – or of course give your dogs plenty of air if you have any. All of the useful storage areas and flat surfaces that seem to exist for everything you could possibly want to carry, including the innovative drinks holders in the doors. All electric windows and mirrors. Air conditioning. Six CD changer. Tiptronic automatic gearbox. Hill descent control. Alloy wheels … I could go on and on.

The rear seats fold down better than anything I’ve come across, allowing for tonnes of luggage space if you have bulky items to transport.

What is really so great about this Freelander is that it is a real head turner, a fantastic looking vehicle that looks far more expensive than it actually is – both on the inside and the outside. And when you drive it it makes you smile :) , this Freelander has real power!

This Freelander has a 2.5 litre Petrol engine, which means that when you need to go it really goes – putting that smile on your face!And it gives great power for towing that caravan, horse box, or anything else you may wish to pull behind you.

The Freelander has MOT until 22nd May 2012, and the service history is:

  • 28/02/2002    3,000 miles
  • 08/05/2003   11,938 miles
  • 05/12/2003   16,684 miles
  • 07/03/2005   37,235 miles
  • 13/04/2008   52,194 miles
  • 01/02/2010   61,330 miles
  • 20/05/2011   68,031 miles

At 68,031 miles the Freelander also had:

  • Cam belt changed
  • new head gaskets on both cylinder heads
  • two fully reconditioned cylinder heads
  • new water pump
  • new thermostat
  • new front brake discs
  • new front brake pads

The Freelander is mechanically and cosmetically sound – no funny noises or rattles. There is no sign of rust, as can be seen on the photos.

This Freelander has such style, comfort and versatility, no wonder they are the best all-rounders in their class. It is a solid, quality 4×4 at a bargain price.

Excellent value and a stunning car – go on, give it some fun – you know you want to!

All viewings welcome.

Please give me a ring on

0780 9575 421

to arrange a convenient time.

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Land Rover Freelander 1 Brand New Rear Differential / Rear Diff

January 13, 2011 – 11:45

Freelander 1 Brand New Rear Differential

£630 incl. VAT

Is Your Freelander whining and grinding from the rear?

Do you want your beloveded Freelander to run smooth and quiet again?

We Can Help!

If your Freelander Rear Differential is damaged we can provide you with a brand new unit.

These units are for the Freelaner 1 (1997 – 2000)

What has caused my rear differential to be damaged?

In most cases damage to your rear differential is caused by not replacing your VCU in a timely manner.

The VCU is a sealed unit, half way along your prop shaft, that contains a viscous fluid. Since this is a sealed unit it is not possible to check, or routinely change, the viscous fluid. It is, therefore, recommended you change the VCU approximately every 70,000 miles.

Over time the viscous fluid in the VCU becomes thick and the prop shaft no longer rotates at the required speed. This puts tremendous strain on the drive train, and, if not replaced in a timely manner, will eventually cause damage to the rest of the drive train – such as your rear differential.

The other common cause of rear differential damage is a differing ratio between the front and rear tyres causing excessive strain to be put on the drive train. The ratio difference is cause by fitting different radius tyres to the front compared to the rear. This can be done by using incorrectly sized tyres; worn tyres on one end of the vehicle and new tyres on the other end (you should always replace all four tyres at the same time on a Freelander); or running very low tyre pressures on one end of the vehicle. A radius difference of just 10mm can destroy a rear differential in just 5 miles!

How can I tell if my rear differential needs replacing?

Generally you will hear a whining or grinding noise from the rear of your Freelander, particularly under acceleration.

If the problem is your rear differential bushes, rather than the rear differential itself, then you will experience a whining noise which increases with road speed.

Warning: If your rear differential has failed because of your VCU then you will need to either replace the VCU at the same time or leave the prop shaft off and operate in front wheel drive only (this is not possible with a 2.5 litre petrol V6 Freelander), otherwise you will damage your replacement rear differential again within a short period of time.

Can you ship Worldwide?

Yes, we will ship anywhere in the world (providing we can find a courier who will do it!)

The shipping prices, fully insured, including shipping the brand new Rear Differential from us in the U.K. to your country, and shipping your old damaged Rear Differential from your country to us in the U.K. are:

Country Price
Austria £ 95
Andora £165
Belgium £ 95
Bulgaria £140
Cyprus £140
Czech Rupublic £140
Denmark £ 95
Estonia £140
Finland £ 95
France £ 95
Germany £ 95
Greece £160
Holland £ 95
Hungary £140
Ireland £ 95
Italy £ 95
Liechtenstein £160
Lithuania £140
Luxembourg £ 95
Malta £195
Monaco £140
Norway £140
Poland £140
Portugal £ 95
Romania £140
Slovakia £140
Spain £ 95
Sweden £ 95
Switzerland £160
Ukraine £140
U.K £ 35

If your country is not on this list give us a call on

+44-780-9575-421

or email

sue@freelanderspecialist.com

for a shipping quotation.

Do I need to return my damaged Rear Differential?

Yes, these Rear Differentials are sold on an exchange basis. You will need to return your damaged Rear Differential to us or pay a £200 non-return surcharge.

Your damaged Rear Differential is suitable as an exchange unit provided there are no cracks or holes in the casing.

The shipping costs include the cost of returning your damaged Rear Differential to us – so there is no extra to pay for this. We will organise the courier, all you have to do is tell us when it will be ready to be collected.

If you want your brand new Rear Differential delivered before returning your damaged unit (so the old one can be taken out at the same time the new one is fitted) we can generally do this. Just let us know when you expect your damaged unit to be ready for collection and we will not charge you the surcharge (the surcharge will be taken from your credit card if you fail to return your old unit within the agreed time).

How do I get my Rear Differential fitted?

Need your brand new Rear Differential fitted? For the complete hassle free service, bring your Freelander to us and we will fit the Rear Differential for you.

Take away all the hassle of getting your Freelander back on the road, bring it to us and we will:

  • Suppy a brand new Rear Differential
  • Fit your brand new Rear Differential

and have you back on the road again in no time!

The total fitted cost (including the Rear Differential) is:

£880 (incl. VAT)

The cost of supply only for the brand new Rear Differential, excluding shipping is:

£630 (incl. VAT)

I’m worried about my VCU?

If you are worried about whether you need to replace your VCU check the mileage on your Freelander. If you have done over 70,000 miles and you have no record of the VCU having been changed then this is likely to have been the cause of damaging your Rear Differential. Any concerns just give us a call on

0780 9575 421

to discuss your symptoms and / or make an appointment for us to have a look at your Freelander.

We also supply reconditioned rear differentials, viscous coupling units (VCU’s) and transfer boxes / IRD units – so no matter what damage may have been done, we can fix it!

How can I pay for my brand new Rear Differential?

The painful bit I know! But we like to give you as much choice as possible, so we accept:

  • Cash (If you are collecting it)
  • All Major Credit Cards (including AMEX) – over the phone or on collection
  • Direct Bank Transfer
  • Paypal
  • Cheques – provided they clear before delivery or collection

What if something goes wrong?

We don’t like things going wrong, and you certainly wouldn’t! Quality is important to us, but in the event that something does go wrong you have our

12 month, unlimited mileage warranty.

Our warranty covers you for a replacement Rear Differential in the event of any failure of a component due to unforseen circumstances.

IMPORTANT: Because it is common that damage to the Rear Differential is caused by the VCU, your warranty will only be valid if you either replace the VCU at the same time OR leave the prop shaft off your Freelander – leaving the same VCU on your vehicle will almost certainly damage any replacement Rear Differential in a short period of time. If you replace your VCU please ensure you keep your receipt to validate your warranty. In addition because a differing ratio in the front and rear tyres can cause rear differential damage very quickly your warranty is void if all four tyres have not been replaced at the same time and to the same specification.

Give us a call on

0780 9575 421

to discuss your needs.

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Freelander 2.0 TD L Series Diesel Timing Cam Belt Replacement

January 12, 2011 – 17:32

Has Your 2.0 L Series Diesel Freelander done 48,000 miles or more?

Do You Want to make sure it does another 48,000 miles?

We Can Help!

Don’t take the chance of your timing belt snapping – if this happens you are likely to do serious, and possibly irreparable engine damage, which would cost thousands to fix!

Our Freelander 2.0 TD L Series Diesel timing belt replacement is just

£595

Get your timing belt replaced in a timely manner – Land Rover’s recommendation is every 48,000 miles.

What is included in your Timing Belt Replacement?

The timing belt (cam belt) controls the timing of your engine’s valves.

Your timing belt replacement includes the fitting of a full timing belt kit – both timing belts, both tensioners and the idler.

Since we specialise in these engines who better to ensure that your timing belt is timed up perfectly? We have the specialist equipment and knowledge for the job.

Do I need a service?

It is advisable to have your vehicle serviced at regular 12,000 mile intervals. If you are changing your timing belt at 48,000 miles then your vehicle will also be requiring its 48,000 mile service.

In line with Land Rover’s service plan, the 48,000 mile service includes your standard service items, plus the timing belt and the glow plugs changed.

The total cost of a 48,000 mile service for your vehicle (including the timing belt replacement) is just £895 – an extra £300 to make sure your beloved car is is given the TLC it deserves.

Where are you?

We are based in Norfolk, postcode IP26 4RH.

If you don’t have a lift home after dropping your car with us, and are looking to use public transport, we can drop you / pick you up at the railway station – our closest is Brandon, however if you are coming through London there is a direct train line from Downham Market which is not too far either. If Thetford is more convenient for you this is also possible.

We are rather in the middle of nowhere, but if you do need to wait for your car there are some pleasant walks in the area.

How long will it take?

To replace your timing belt generally takes less than 5 hours.

To complete a full 48,000 mile service will take approximately 8 to 9 hours, including the timing belt.

How can I pay for my timing belt replacement?

The painful bit I know! But we like to give you as much choice as possible, so we accept:

  • Cash on collection (always nice!)
  • All Major Credit Cards (including AMEX) – over the phone or on collection
  • Direct Bank Transfer
  • Paypal
  • Cheques – provided they clear before delivery or collection

What if something goes wrong?

We don’t like things going wrong, and you certainly wouldn’t! Quality is important to us, but in the event that something does go wrong you have our

12 month, unlimited mileage warranty.

Our warranty covers you for parts and labour in the event of any failure of a component due to unforseen circumstances. Just bring your car back to us and we will sort it out.

Give us a call on

0780 9575 421

to discuss your needs.

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Freelander Problems – Freelander 2.0 L Series Diesel & 2.0 TD4 Diesel Head Gasket Replacement

November 27, 2010 – 11:23

Is Your Diesel Freelander losing water or overheating?

Do you want your beloved Freelander back on the road and running cool again?

We Can Help!

If you are losing water or your engine is overheating, don’t continue to drive your car otherwise you could do extensive damage to the engine.

Our Freelander Diesel head gasket replacement starts at just £895.

What are the symptoms of a Head Gasket problem?

Common symptoms of head gasket failure are:

  • Engine overheating
  • Excessive coolant loss
  • Coolant in the oil (this looks like a milky sludge on the dipstick, or oil filler cap)
  • Oil in the coolant (this also looks like a milky sludge, but in the expansion tank)
  • Engine misfire, excessive white smoke from the exhaust, or hard/ non start.

Please contact us on

0780 9575 421

if you are unsure your vehicle is suffering from head gasket failure and we will be happy to advise you.

What is included in your Head Gasket Replacement?

We provide two types of head gasket replacement for your Freelander, a Standard and a Deluxe.

Our Freelander Diesel Standard Head Gasket replacement includes:

  • pressure testing the cylinder head
  • skimming of the cylinder head to ensure it is flat
  • Head gasket replacement using a modified multi layer gasket which is much more robust than other gaskets
  • New retaining stretch bolts
  • Overhaul gasket set including camshaft oil seals, inlet/exhaust manifold gasket etc.
  • Coolant change
  • Engine oil Change
  • New oil filter

Our Freelander Diesel Standard Head Gasket replacement is just £895 including VAT for the L-Series Freelander (1997 – 2000) and £995 including VAT for the TD4 Freelander (2000 – 2006).

Our Freelander Diesel Deluxe Head Gasket replacement includes:

  • a fully reconditioned head cylinder including pressure testing, skimming, reseating the valves, decoking the cylinder head, draining the lifters, resealing and new valve stem seals
  • Head gasket replacement
  • New retaining stretch bolts
  • Overhaul gasket set including camshaft oil seals, inlet/exhaust manifold gasket etc.
  • New water pump
  • New Thermostat
  • New water reservoir bottle and cap (these can be prone to hair line cracks which allow air into the system)
  • Complete flush of the cooling system to get rid of any oil residues
  • Coolant change
  • Complete flush of the engine to get rid of any water residues
  • Engine oil change including a high quality engine additive
  • New oil filter

Our Freelander Diesel Deluxe Head Gasket replacement is just £1,495 including VAT for the L-Series Freelander (1997 – 2000) and £1,595 including VAT for the TD4 Freelander (2000 – 2006).

Which Head Gasket Replacement should I have?

Which head gasket replacement you go for very much depends on what has happened to your vehicle.

If your Freelander has not overheated and you are looking to change the head gasket as a precautionary measure then you will only need the standard head gasket replacement.

If your Freelander has severely overheated then it is recommended you use the deluxe head gasket replacement as this addresses all the parts of the cooling system that could have caused the problem or could have been affected by the overheating.

PLEASE NOTE: If your engine has excessively overheated, it may have caused further damage which the standard head gasket replacement may not repair.

To discuss your particular situation please call us on

0780 9575 421

and we will be happy to advise you.

Can you change the cam belt at the same time?

Your cam belt on the Freelander 2.0 L-series diesel should be changed every 48,000 miles. If your vehicle is close to this mileage it will be cost effective to have the cam belt changed at the same time as the head gasket is done.

A cam belt change when done with the head gasket is only £195 (normal price £495) – this includes both belts.

The Freelander TD4 has a timing chain, so there is not cam belt to change.

What if my Freelander is not drivable?

If your Freelander does not drive and you need to get it to us to fix your head gasket why not try:

  1. Phoning your breakdown recovery service, if you have one. These will sometimes transport your car for free, or at a reduced rate.
  2. Giving us a call on 0780 9575 421 and we will arrange to transport your car to us for a cost of £1.80 per mile (calculated one way only to IP26 4RH). We can collect from anywhere in Europe (ferry crossings will be charged additionally where applicable).

How long will it take?

To replace your head gasket takes about one week, this is due to the machining which is required.

If you need your Freelander back on the road quicker than this just give us a call on

0780 9575 421

and we will do our best to help.

How can I pay for my head gasket replacement?

The painful bit I know! But we like to give you as much choice as possible, so we accept:

  • Cash on collection (always nice!)
  • All Major Credit Cards (including AMEX) – over the phone or on collection
  • Direct Bank Transfer
  • Paypal
  • Cheques – provided they clear before delivery or collection

What if something goes wrong?

We don’t like things going wrong, and you certainly wouldn’t! Quality is important to us, but in the event that something does go wrong you have our

12 month, unlimited mileage warranty.

Our warranty covers you for parts and labour in the event of any failure of a component due to unforseen circumstances. Just bring your car back to us and we will sort it out.

Give us a call on

0780 9575 421

to discuss your needs.

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Land Rover Freelander Xedi S-Wagon V reg, 5 doors

October 18, 2010 – 18:33

NOW SOLD

Land Rover Freelander
5 Door Station Wagon
2.0 litre Diesel

Drives Beautifully

Only £2,495

This is a fabulous Land Rover Freelander. It has all the economy of the 2.0 litre diesel engine; plenty of pulling power with it’s tow ball and electrics already fitted; very stylish with alloy wheels and roof bars; and extremely versatile with 5 doors and plenty of luggage space.

If you’re looking for a car for the family, for work or just for a whole lot of fun, then this is the vehicle for you!

This Freelander drives beautifully, for a diesel it is quiet and powerful – one of the best driving diesel Freelanders we have had in.

There is only 87,040 miles on the clock (although there may be a few more when you come to see it as it’s an irresistable drive!). Taxed until the end of January and MOT until December 3rd 2010 – we are happy to put a full years MOT on for you if required.

Click here for more photographs.

For more information

and to arrange a viewing

please give us a call on

0780 9575 421

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The Top 9 Causes of a Freelander Losing Water?

October 10, 2010 – 10:12

On of the most important things to do with a Freelander K-Series engine is to check the water regularly – a problem caught early could save you a lot of money! So you have been regularly checking your water level and all has been going well, until one day you check it and it has used more than normal. What could it be?

If all other driving conditions are as normal – that is you have not been working it harder than usual so it may have naturally used more water – then there are a few places where the water could be escaping from:

  1. It could be your head gasket. If this is the case you may see a leak around the cylinder head, however the water may be escaping into the oil – this would show up as a mayonnaise coloured residue within the oil, often seen on the oil tank filler cap.
  2. It may be that your water pump leaking through a worn seal or bearing. In this situation you would tend to find that it drips after the car has been driven. On a Freelander K-Series engine the drip would be seen on the drivers side at the front of the engine; on the  Freelander K V6 engine the drip would be seen on the drivers side at the back of the engine.
  3. Your thermostat housing may be cracked or have worn seals. If water is escaping from the thermostat housing you would expect to see the water drip from the back of the engine underneath the inlet manifold for a Freelander K-Series engine. With the Freelander K V6 engine the thermostat housing is in the centre of the V so the water would drip into the V and then may drip out at the rear of the engine. With the K V6 engine it can be difficult to tell from where the drip is whether it is the thermostat housing or the water pump.
  4. The leak could be from the radiator, hence it would be dripping from, well, the radiator!
  5. The cooling system pipes could be weakened, causing them to split, or the clips holding the pipes have loosened and are no longer strong enough to hold the pressure of the water as it expands. In either of these situations it is a case of checking for drips from any of the cooling system pipes in the engine bay.
  6. There may be a leak in your heater matrix. Generally if your heater matrix is leaking you will find the foot well inside the car becomes damp.
  7. The leak may be coming from your inlet manifold gasket. Check for water dripping from around the inlet manifold.
  8. Water could be leaking into the IRD if the cooling plate has been damaged. Check the breather hose for the IRD unit – if this is the case then you will not see a drip of water as the leak is internal to the IRD unit.
  9. Perhaps the worst cause of a water leak is a crack in one of the cylinder liners. In this situation water would be leaking into the engine itself. Often only small quantities of water are escaping into the engine which may mean that traces of water in the oil are not obvious.

For effective cooling the Freelander K-series engine requires the red coolant to be used, and when it comes to determining where a leak is this can often be very beneficial as if the leak is dripping externally it will leave pink stains around the area of the drip.

But don’t panic, we can help!

Give us a call on

0780 9575 421

to discuss your problem

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Top 7 Tips for Looking After Your Land Rover Freelander

October 10, 2010 – 09:48

Freelanders need a little more care and attention than many modern day vehicles, but if you give it that little extra love it should reward you well by keeping away what could potentially be very costly repair bills.

So here are our top 7 tips for looking after your Freelander:

  1. Check your water regularly. This tip is particularly important with the petrol Freelanders but is certainly worth doing with any Freelander. Check your water level preferably once a week and before you go on any long journey and you will find you can soon tell if your Freelander is using more water than usual and get the problem seen to before it does serious damage to your engine.
  2. Change your viscous coupling unit (VCU) every 70,000 miles. This tip will save you thousands on having to replace other parts of the drive train because they got damage by running your viscous coupling unit (VCU) beyond its useable life. Don’t wait for any symptoms, by that time it could be too late, just bite the bullet and make sure you change that viscous coupling unit (VCU) every 70,000 miles.
  3. Service your Freelander regularly. I know this is important for any vehicle but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t be reiterating it as one of the most important tips for looking after your Freelander. And don’t just give it a simple oil change service, the diesel model in particular has some very important filters that need to be changed regularly – if you don’t change these you could ruin your whole engine!
  4. Use the red coolant – no other colour! The red coolant’s composition is right for the Freelander engines, don’t put any other coolant in there thinking they are all the same.
  5. For the 1.8 litre petrol Freelander make sure it is fitted with a multi-layer head gasket, preferably the modified / uprated ones. If your Freelander still has the old single layer gasket fitted then don’t wait for it to blow – change it NOW, it’ll be much cheaper that way.
  6. Check your oil regularly. Again a tip that should be obvious for any driver but it is amazing how often we don’t follow it! Don’t just check the level of the oil, take the cap off and check there is no water getting into it (if this is the case your oil would look creamy, and you would often get this creamy residue on the inside of the filler cap.)
  7. Check for any oil leaks on the IRD unit (transfer box) and the rear differential. I know, especially in the winter, we don’t really want to get down on the ground and look underneath our cars, but it is certainly worth doing it every once in a while. Have a quick look at the IRD unit (transfer box) connected to the front of your prop shaft, and the rear differential connected to the rear of your prop shaft, and make sure there are no leaks.

Most of these tips will take up less than five minutes once a week on your Freelander, but they could save you thousands in unexpected repair bills!

As Featured On EzineArticles

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Top 7 Tips When Buying a Land Rover Freelander 1

October 10, 2010 – 09:19

Land Rover Freelanders are great vehicles. They make fantastic family cars; give superb vision of the road; are easy to get in and out of if bending is a problem, and perform very well off road.

If you are looking to buy any vehicle you should be aware of the problems that tend to be common to that type of vehicle, and Land Rover Freelanders are no different. So here are the top seven tips to watch out for when buying a Land Rover Freelander.

  1. The head gasket. If you are buying a 1.8 petrol Freelander be aware that the original head gaskets, at best, generally only last 70,000 miles, and often fail well before this. Check if the head gasket has been replaced. If it has, find out if it was replaced with a modified / up rated multi-layer steel (MLS) head gasket, and not another original single layer gasket – as this will fail again by 70,000 miles! The other thing to check is whether the cylinder head was skimmed, and if the Freelander had overheated, pressure tested when the head gasket was repaired. If the head gasket has not been changed then budget into the cost of your purchase the fact that you will need to have this done.
  2. The viscous coupling unit (VCU). The viscous coupling unit on a Freelander is in the centre of the prop shaft and makes up part of the drive train delivering power to the rear wheels. This is a sealed unit containing a viscous fluid which has a life span of about 70,000 miles. If the viscous coupling unit (VCU) is not replaced regularly every 70,000 miles then you risk damage to the rest of the drive train, the IRD (transfer box), rear differential and possibly even the gearbox. If the Freelander you are purchasing has done over 70,000 miles check if the viscous coupling unit (VCU) has been replaced. If it has not then you will need to budget for a new or reconditioned viscous coupling unit (VCU) – don’t be tempted to think it will be OK, the possible damage that can be caused by not replacing this unit can be very costly.
  3. The service history. As with all vehicles one with a full service history is more attractive than one which you know nothing about. This does not mean the Freelander will be free from problems, but if it has been serviced regularly then at least you know it has been looked after. It is particularly important with the TD4 models when it is serviced all the filters are replaced at the appropriate times (there are a number of additional filters on the TD4 that can cause massive engine damage if not replaced in a timely manner).
  4. The cam / timing belt. The cam / timing belt on a Freelander (not the TD4 as this has a timing chain) should be replaced every 72,000 miles. If the Freelander you are purchasing is over this mileage then check if the cam / timing belt has been replaced. This is not a cheap job on the 2.5 litre petrol V6 models so make sure you budget for it if it has not been done.Once again don’t risk leaving this as a snapped cam / timing belt can completely destroy your engine.
  5. The drive train. A Freelander operates in permanent four wheel drive. At the front, connected to the gearbox is the IRD unit (transfer box), which connects to the prop shaft containing the viscous coupling unit (VCU) into the rear differential at the back. Check underneath the Freelander to see if there are any leaks coming from the IRD unit (transfer box) or the rear differential. When you test drive the Freelander listen for any clonking, whining or vibrations – these could indicate problems along the drive train. In particular test the Freelander turning corners on full lock, both in forward drive and reverse – this is when any clonking or holding back will become most apparent. If the Freelander feels as though it is holding back this is generally an indication of the viscous coupling unit (VCU) being past its useable life. If there is clonking from the front of the Freelander this could indicate a problem with the IRD unit (transfer box). If there is a clonking or whining from the rear of the Freelander this could be a sign of problems with the rear differential or the rear differential bushes (particularly the front bush).
  6. Warning Lights. There are three main warning lights on a Freelander that are often illuminated – much of the time all three of them are on together (affectionately – or is it frustratingly! – referred to as the three amigos). These are the hill descent control light, the traction control light and the ABS light. Very often these illuminate because of issues with sensors – but be aware that it can be very difficult, and hence costly, to determine the source of the problem.
  7. Electrics. When you purchase a Freelander it is always worth checking if the electrics operate correctly. If your Freelander has a sunroof, don’t be surprised if it doesn’t work – these often go wrong! If it does work then think yourself lucky and make sure you open and close it regularly so it does not seize up. If it doesn’t work the best thing is to make sure it is properly sealed, take the fuse out so you don’t accidentally try to open it and end up with a half open sunroof that you can’t get closed again, then forget you ever had one! Check if all the electric windows and central locking works, remembering that the rear tailgate window is also electric.

All vehicles have issues inherent to their model, the key is to be aware of them and make sure when you are buying your Freelander you know what repair or servicing work may need doing to it soon after purchase, so you can factor it in when deciding if the price is right. We hope these 7 tips help you.

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By Sue | Posted in Used Freelanders | Tagged , , , | Comments (2)

What Can Cause a Loss of Compression On My Freelander Engine?

October 10, 2010 – 08:57

When your Freelander engine is no longer idling sweetly, has a loss of power or just won’t start, there is a possibility you are losing compression. But what causes this?

The compression in your Freelander engine is what makes it go. You need a tight seal within the cylinder walls, pistons and rings, valves and seals in order to harness the energy and redirect it into the right places to have your Freelander running smoothly. So a loss of compression on your vehicle means there is a leak within this system, namely:

  1. Cylinder liners – one or more of these may have a crack. If this is the case then you may see vapour being burned off from the oil as water may leak through into the engine oil.
  2. Piston rings – these may be worn. If your Freelander has smoke coming from the exhaust, it could very well be a problem with your piston rings.
  3. Valves or valve seats – these may not be sitting properly due to carbon accumulation or may be worn or damaged. This issue  tends to cause problems in starting and idling your Freelander.
  4. Head gasket – this may have failed. If the head gasket fails between two adjacent cylinders then you Freelander will lose compression.

A compression test on your engine can identify which cylinders have lost compression. But whichever cylinder it is I’m afraid a loss of compression on your Freelander means that engine work is required.

But don’t panic, we can help!

Give us a call on

0780 9575 421

to discuss your problem

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By Sue | Posted in Freelander Problems | Tagged , , , , , | Comments (0)

What is the Hill Descent Control (HDC) on My Freelander For and How Do I Use It?

September 30, 2010 – 16:10

Imagine this. It’s a wet day. You’re on your local 4×4 track with your trusty Freelander. Suddenly you find yourself perched on the top of what feels like a sheer, muddy drop that appears to go straight into a lake! Oops! Your heart is pounding. When you looked at this from the other side you could see that what was needed was a sharp left turn at the bottom of the hill to keep you from drowning in the depths of the lake. It looked much easier from that angle, looking up; not this one, looking down!

OK, you think, what is needed here to avoid drowning upside down in what may be monster infested waters, is a slow, controlled descent. But if you keep your foot on the brake you’re just going to skid – well, that may not be so bad, perhaps you’ll do a 360 turn as you go down the hill then at least you won’t see the imminent drowning coming!

So, perhaps you can just let the gears take the strain. But this hill is STEEP! Will the gears really keep you slow enough to get round that corner at the bottom? Oh, the monsters are waiting, are you sure that wasn’t one that just popped its head out of the water?

Then you remember the magic yellow button on your gear lever. Excitement, rather than fear, takes over as you press the button and the green light of a descending vehicle shows up on your dashboard. You engage in first gear and accelerate just enough for the nose of your Freelander to tip over the ridge. Then you remove your feet from all pedals. Wow! Slowly and gently, with perfect control, your Freelander makes its way down the slope. Uh uh, was that a slight skid? Well if it was your Freelander has it all under control now. Here comes the bottom of the hill and that tight left turn – ahh, child’s play – no dinner for you today monsters of the lake!

So that’s what your Hill Descent Control (HDC) is for. The magic button that will control your descent down a hill, in either first or reverse gear (perhaps I should go back and try it in reverse you think to yourself, or perhaps you’ll save that for another day!). When the Hill Descent Control button (HDC) is on in either of these gears then your Freelander as good as takes over. It operates with the traction control and ABS system to give you a controlled descent down that muddy, steep hill – all you have to do is steer!

After that successful descent why not try a trip across the wart hog mud bath? Ummm, Hill Descent Control (HDC) doesn’t work on the flat in four feet of sinking mud – now where was the number for that tractor recovery?


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By Sue | Posted in Freelanders | Tagged , , , , | Comments (0)