If you are thinking of buying a Land Rover Freelander there are a few things that it is worth checking on any Freelander you are considering.
As with all cars there are certain issues that are common to each particular make, and the Freelander is no exception. To help you to make the right decision with your Freelander purchase we will point out what needs checking with the:
- Freelander Engine;
- Freelander Drive Train;
- Freelander Body.
1. The Freelander Engine
a) Head Gasket
i) In the Service History
One of the primary issues with the 1.8 petrol Freelander is the head gasket. Originally a single layer head gasket was fitted and these tended to blow by 70,000 miles, often quite a bit before this! The first thing you need to find out is if the head gasket has ever been replaced on the vehicle, and if so was a modified multi layer head gasket used. If it is not documented that a modified multi layer head gasket was used then there is a chance that you could face the same problem again within 70,000 miles of the change – don’t assume that if the head gasket was done at a Land Rover dealer then a modified multi layer head gasket will have been used, we have seen them with single layer gaskets after being repaired at a Land Rover dealership.
How much will it cost?
If the head gasket has not been changed, or you have no evidence that a modified multi layer head gasket has been used then you should be budgeting around £545 to have a routine change of the head gasket before it blows – if you wait until it blows you will be spending more than this!
ii) On the Freelander
To check if the head gasket on the Freelander has not already blown, check for oil residue in the water reservoir bottle (left hand side under the bonnet), and take the oil cap off and check if there appears to be any water mixing with the oil.
The other issue that can cause head gasket failure is the water pump or any leakage in the cooling system. Check that there are no signs of a water leak. Be aware that the correct coolant for a Freelander is red, so the water in the water reservoir bottle should look pink.
How much will it cost?
If the head gasket has failed you are looking at £945 for a thorough job to ensure every part that may have been affected by the overheating is dealt with.
b) Cam Belt
i) In the Service History
The 1.8 litre petrol, L series 2.0 litre diesel and 2.5 litre V6 petrol Freelanders all have cam belts that should be replaced at the 72,000 mile service. If the Freelander you are considering buying is close to, or has past this mileage and there is no evidence that the cam belt has been changed then it is highly advisable that you have this done as soon as possible. A snapped cam belt can completely destroy your engine and you will be looking at a complete engine rebuild rather than a routine cam belt change.
How much will it cost?
A routine cam belt change with water pump will cost you £295 for a 1.8 litre petrol Freelander, £395 for an L series 2.0 litre diesel Freelander and £795 for the 2.5 litre V6 petrol Freelander.
ii) On the Freelander
Without taking the cam belt cover off it is difficult to tell if there is wear to the cam belt. If the cam belt has snapped you will certainly know – the car will not go!!
How much will it cost?
If the cam belt on the Freelander has snapped you are probably looking at an engine rebuild. Depending on the damage done you are looking at upwards of £1,495 for a 1.8 petrol Freelander; £1,695 for a 2.0 diesel Freelander; and £2,095 for the 2.5 V6 petrol Freelander – so make sure you change the cam belt in a timely manner!
c) Warning Lights
i) On the Freelander
Warning lights are on the dash for a reason – something is wrong! The main warning lights on most Freelanders are the engine warning light, hill descent control (looks like a car going down hill), the ABS and the traction control light. Please note that the ABS light does not extinguish until you are moving forward (not in reverse) at a certain speed – so as you pull off slowly this light will remain on until you get some speed up.
There are a lot of sensors on a Freelander and often the warning lights are on because of a malfunction on one of the sensors. The only way to know what the problem is is to put the Freelander on a diagnostic machine, and even then it can take a lot of sorting out. Finding the root cause of a warning light being on can be very time consuming and costly.
How much will it cost?
Putting the Freelander on a diagnostic machine will cost around £42. Once you have a diagnosis, sorting the problem out could be a nice simple fix, but it could run into hundreds of pounds and a lot of time!
2. The Freelander Drive Train
a) Viscous Coupling Unit (VCU)
i) In the Service History
The viscous coupling unit (VCU) is a sealed unit on the prop shaft that supports the four wheel drive function of a Freelander. All Freelander 1 models have a viscous coupling unit (unless the prop shaft has been removed, rendering the Freelander a two wheel drive vehicle).
The viscous coupling unit is a sealed unit which contains a viscous fluid. As the viscous fluid becomes thicker it over time the viscous coupling will become stiffer to rotate and this will put a strain on the whole drive train of the Freelander. Hence the viscous coupling unit is an item which should be replaced regularly, at about 70,000 miles. If there is no record of having the viscous coupling replaced and the Freelander you are buying has done 70,000 miles or more then you should be considering replacing this immediately.
How much will it cost?
A reconditioned viscous coupling unit, which has had its viscous fluid replaced, is £270 (add an extra £65 if you replace the bearings at the same time, which is recommended), and fitting is £105.
ii) On the Freelander
Since the viscous coupling unit is a sealed unit it is difficult to know if the viscous fluid has become too thick – it is not like the oil where you can pull out the dipstick and see how it looks. If when you drive the Freelander it feels as if it is holding back or as if the brakes are binding, then this could be the viscous coupling showing excessive signs of wear. It will be especially noticeable when reversing on full lock.
Once the viscous coupling becomes stiff there is a lot of strain put on the whole drive train. If the Freelander is still driven as normal it will eventually damage the IRD unit (transfer box) and the rear differential – then things get really expensive. Generally if you can hear a clunking noise from the front of the vehicle as you go around corners then there is a good chance that there is damage to the IRD.
How much will it cost?
If you are lucky and the only damage that has occurred is to the viscous coupling unit then the cost will be the same as a routine replacement. If, however, it has caused damage to the IRD then you are looking at an extra £650 for a reconditioned IRD unit, plus fitting at £195 – and that is assuming no other damage has been done, so make sure you replace your viscous coupling unit in a timely manner!
b) Differential Centre Bush
i) On the Freelander
Wear to the differential centre bush on the Freelander is something to look out for, although it is not a major item that should stop you purchasing a good vehicle. If you go underneath the Freelander and push the prop shaft at the back by the differential to see how much play it has. If there is a lot of play then it is advisable to get this changed as soon as possible.
How much will it cost?
The differential centre bush and fitting should cost about £80.
3. The Freelander Body
a) Window, Doors and Sunroof
i) On the Freelander
Unfortunately it is quite common on the Freelander to have problems with the windows, doors and sunroof – so check these things.
If the sunroof does not work quite often the best thing to do is to take out the fuse and leave it shut! This way you know you will not end up with a sunroof half open that you just can’t get closed again. If the sunroof on the Freelander does work then make sure you open and close it regularly to stop it ceasing up.
Check that all the doors open and lock on the fob. The first click of the fob will open just the drivers door, the second click should open all the doors including the tailgate one.
Check that all the electric windows work – in some models all windows are electric whereas in others the rear windows are manual. Remember that the tailgate window also goes down, there is a button in the centre front that controls the tailgate window. In addition to this if you press and hold the fob then instead of opening the doors it should bring the tailgate window down. To put the tailgate window back up you need to either put the key in the tailgate door lock, turn and hold it until the window comes up, or use the button inside the Freelander. Do note that the key does not open the tailgate door, this can only be done from the fob, the key is just for controlling the tailgate window.
How much will it cost?
If your windows are not working this will cost around £50 to £80 depending on which window has the problem. If you cannot hear the sound of the motor when you press the button it is worth checking the fuses before going to the expense of getting a garage to look at fixing it.
Fixing the doors of the Freelander will cost you around £50 if a new mechanism is not required. And as for the sunroof – I would just leave it closed!
Hi, Ive just brought a td4 freelander 05. its got a problem with the rear door not opening fully and window not working, also rear wiper intre lights not coming on, ive checked the fuses all seem ok, so im stuck any ideas?
Thanks Dan
Hi Dan,
You will need to remove the panel from the inside of the tailgate door and check the motors and window regulator.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
HI i am thinking of buying a Land Rover Freelander 2.0 XE DI STATION WAGON 5DR Its a 1999 with about 160000 on the clock MOT till 07/13 and asking price of £1795. what should i look for and is it priced about right (i am assuming no service history as none mentioned)
Hi Matthew,
How good the price is depends on where you are purchasing it from. The book prices are:
Franchise dealer: £2,145
Independent: £1,920
Private good: £1,320
Private poor: £725
The main thing to look for on the L-series diesel is that the viscous coupling unit (VCU) has been changed. This should be changed about every 70,000 miles. If it has not been changed then account for it on the price, we would charge £445 for the VCU, bearings and fitting, so this should give you an idea as to how much to account for.
Good luck with your purchase.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue where are you station, and/ or could point me in my nearest, I am in Peebles ,Scottish Borders , I have 98 2l deisel freelander in have just bought , there’s a knocking sound under Neath , oil leak dripping off the front bumper out the bottom, there’s no coolant in it, power steering fluid past minim LH window won’t work…… ….?… Plz help Marc .
It’s done 145,000, don’t no if cvs has been changed, cold start problems but fine after wards ,always wanted one.
Hi Marc,
Firstly, congratulation on your purchase, the L-series Freelanders are very tough and reliable, I’m sure once you have ironed out the initial issues you are going to love it.
We are located in Norfolk, IP26 4RH.
Do you have any evidence of the viscous coupling unit (VCU) having been changed? If it has not been changed and the knocking noise is coming from the front, it is possible the issue is the IRD / transfer box, caused by the viscous coupling unit (VCU) having gone beyond its useable life (which is generally around 70,000 miles before it starts to strain the drive train). You would be as well to remove the prop shaft as soon as possible to avoid any further damage. Once the prop shaft is off check for excessive play in the pinion of the IRD and drain some of the oil out of it to see if there is any metal in the oil.
If the knocking noise is from the back and generally happens when changing gear this would be the rear differential centre bush.
We would have to have a look at it to determine where the oil leak was coming from.
If it currently has just pure water in the cooling system you would be best to buy RED coolant and add this, get the concentrate then you could perhaps just syringe some of the water out and replace it with the coolant, then you will not have the worry of bleeding it.
Use a syringe and take some of the power steering fluid out so it goes down to the maximum level.
You can get repair kits for the windows, however generally these are very fiddly and an aftermarket window regulator is £60 for the part and a lot quicker to fit, so this is what we would generally recommend.
The cold start problems are possibly just the heater plugs ready to be changed.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi
I’m looking at a Freelander HSE 2.0 on a 06 plate, £9k with 60k miles on it. Does that seem a good price and any tips on what I need to look for as possible issues?
Thanks
Mark
Hi Mark,
Congratulations on considering purchasing a Freelander.
The price seems a little high. Currently the book price for an 06 manual 5 door Freelander with 60,000 miles is:
Franchise dealer: £8,635
Independent: £8,085
Private good: £7,460
Private poor: £6,050
However, if it is automatic the current prices are:
Franchise dealer: £9,055
Independent: £8,480
Private good: £7,825
Private poor: £6,345
Be aware that in about 10,000 miles you will need to change the viscous coupling unit (VCU) to avoid damage to the rest of the drive train. Other than that just make sure it drives well (check for a smooth gear change if it is automatic) and if there is no evidence of the breather filter at the rear of the engine being changed then get this done if you purchase it.
Best of luck.
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi,
Thank you for all the information on this website -it’s been very useful…
I’m looking to buy a 2.5 V6 hse 2005 (55 plate), and I’ll probably go to inspect it on Thursday… It’s done 77,500 miles,
1) he owner mentioned that his mechanic said the cam belt will need replacing in a few thousand miles… According to your tips, this should have been done at 72,000 so I guess this would need replacing ASAP?
2) I haven’t checked the service history yet, but the main thing I will look at is if the VCU unit has been replaced and I will also check its temp after a test drive to make sure the tyres are ok… I will also check that the coolant is red; Thanks for all the info on this issue…
3) do I need to check if it will have a multilevel head gasket or will this be standard to the v6?
4) is there anything else you would recommend that I look at for this vehicle / are there any other issues with this particular model ?
Thanks very much for your help,
Regards,
Dan
Hi Dan,
You have clearly read thoroughly. You have certainly picked up the most important points.
1. Yes, the cam belt should be changed every 72,000 miles, so needs to be done as soon as possible.
2. Absolutely, if the VCU has not been changed do that as soon as possible. If the coolant is not red have the system flushed out and change it to red as soon as possible.
3. Don’t worry about the type of head gaskets which are fitted. The V6 Freelander does not have the same issues as the 1.8 Freelander.
4. Check around the engine bay for any signs of coolant residue, and ask if they tend to lose any coolant. Sometimes the V6 can lose coolant from the thermostat housing or the waterpump (which would be changed anyway if you are changing the cam belt), and when it does you need to pick up on it as soon as possible to avoid it affecting the head gasket. If anything other than red coolant has been used then check that the bottom radiator hose is getting warm – i.e. that there does not appear to be a blockage and the coolant is circulating correctly.
I hope it turns out to be all that you want, the V6 model is Nobert’s favourite, he says it always puts a smile on his face!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
Thanks for all of your help! Your website and your advice has been really indispensable!
One last (!) question: What is your opinion regarding orange coolant? Can this be used on the freelander V6 or will it lead to the same issues as other (non-pink) coolants?
I’m going to see a car next week – it all sounds fine except for the orange coolant and hairline cracks around the coolant tank…
All the best,
Dan
Hi Dan,
The orange coolant has Organic Acid Technology (OAT), which is what is important in the red coolant, so this should not be a problem.
With the hairline cracks around the reservoir bottle, if these are not causing it to overheat and lose pressure, then don’t worry. If you buy it just get that bottle changed, you’re looking at about £50 for bottle and cap.
We have our fingers crossed for you that this is the one.
We are here to help, so ask as many questions as you need.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks for your email Sue but I just put down a deposit on a 2002 td4 with 89 k on the clock. It has part service history and looks very nice. First things on the to do list are vcu and breather filter as can’t find anything that says this has been done. Now just paranoid about clutch having read some horror stories and costs involved. Is there a typical age/mileage that the clutch becomes an issue on these cars? Should I be worried?
When the bank balance has recovered I will get it in for a service in a few months.
Is from a large dealer with a short warranty so that’s a little reassuring.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for all your help!
James
Congratulations on your purchase James, it sounds as though you have got yourself a good Freelander.
A wise move to deal with the VCU and breather filter.
With regard to the clutch, no, there does not appear to be a typical mileage at which these go, it will depend on how it is driven. I wouldn’t worry about it unless you are feeling some symptoms. What makes the cost so high is changing the dual mass flywheel at the same time as the clutch, which is what is recommended, and these are a very expensive part.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi,
I am looking at purchasing my first freelander. I have been hunting for one for a couple of weeks now, and have just come across your website…very useful!
I have seen a 2000 1.8. It has had a lot of work done to it in the last few years and was wondering if you thought I should be concerned about it. It has a full service history and 6 months mot with no advisories. It has covered 79K but approx 15K ago it had a brand new land rover engine put it by a land over specialist. At the same time it had new I.R.D, gearbox clutch and release bearing, viscous coupling and propshaft bearings and finally exhaust system from manifold on including catalytic converter.
All paperwork in present to support this work.
These seems like a lot of work to me and the price the guy wants for the car is reasonable. Do you think I should be reassured or concerned by this?
Also do you think the new engine will have one of the mulitlayered head gaskets?
Thanks,
James
Hi James,
I think we spoke on the telephone this morning.
Very difficult to tell if the engine would have the multi layer head gasket unless we see it, so account for this in the price.
Provided the VCU has now been changed don’t worry about the work on the drive train, this will all have been a consequence of the VCU going beyond its useable life.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
Yes it was me you spoke to. Went and saw the car yesterday and was very disappointed, not a bit how the seller described it and no paperwork to do with the work.
Looks like the hunt continues.
I’ve been thinking I might look at the 2.0 l series diesel. I do a fair bit of motorway driving so do you think it would be better for this? I understand that the drive chain can still be an issue if not mainrained and the cambelt so I will be looking out for this. What the situation with head gaskets on the l series?
Have seen a couple of potentials advertised within budget with about 100K on the clock. Apparently with full service history. ..won’t believe that till I see it! Is this a reasonable mileage in your opinion?
Thanks for all your help and great work with this site its been invaluable.
Cheers
James
Hi James,
Sorry to hear it didn’t turn out to be the Freelander you had hoped for. The L-series Freelanders are very good, a bit noisier than the TD4’s, but generally they are very reliable. No head gasket issues with the L-series, and I’ve seen plenty of them well over the 200,000 mile and still going strong.
As you say, make sure you change the cam belt every 48,000 miles and the VCU every 70,000 miles and you shouldn’t have any problems. There are a lot less sensors on the L-series, so less to go wrong!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, I am looking at buying a 2010 LF MY10 TD4 HSE interstate so will not have the ability to view it. Is it worth me going through a very reptuable inspection company to view vehicle, a friend reccomended them they charge about twice as much as some other companies. As the car is still under new car warranty until July and full log book service history, should I just find a cheaper inspection company? the car has only done 14,000 miles.
Also, any chance you know a good service company in Perth, Western Australia you could reccomend?
Hi Krystina,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
To a great extent this is down to how comfortable you feel if a cheaper inspection company is used. You do have the back up of the manufacturer warranty, and even a cheaper company should be able to determine if there is anything major wrong with the vehicle.
Unfortunately we do not know of a service company in Perth which we can recommend.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Looking on buying a freelander. 2 SE 2.2 td4 it’s on a 2007 reg and has done very high mileage (158k) my question would be what should I look out for Any advice is much appreciated.
Hi Paul,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
The Freelander 2 is a very good vehicle. Check that there are no noises coming from the rear differential, as there has been a known problem with some of these. Also check if the timing belt has been replaced (these should be replaced at 150,000 miles, so if it has not had it done budget that into the price).
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
Can i just say a GREAT site. Im loooking for a Freelander TD4 3dr around 2005-6 for about £4k. All the ones I have seen have had about 80-105k miles on the clock, so how important is it to make sure the VCU has been changed before I look at purchasing?
Thanks
Dominic
Hi Dominic,
Thank you for your kind words, we’re pleased you find the site useful.
If the Freelanders you are looking at have done over 70,000 miles and there is no evidence the VCU has been changed, when you go to test drive it listen out for any clonking or bearing noises as you drive it. Also make sure you test how it feels when on full lock in both reverse and forward gear, if it feels like the brakes are on then listen even harder for any strange noises from the underneath whilst you are driving.
If you have any strange noises then it is probably best to walk away from it unless the price is very low. If everything feels fine and there are no strange noises then there should be no reason why you shouldn’t consider buying it, just account in the price for changing the VCU as soon as possible (£445 for reconditioned VCU, bearings & fitting, as a guide).
The other thing worth mentioning, because it has caught a few people out in the past, do make sure the Freelander has a prop shaft on it. If there is no prop shaft and you want the 4×4 functionality then it is probably best to walk away.
Hope this helps.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi I have just bought a Freelander on a 55 Plate, I never thought to look under it as it had full service history and I checked the MOT on line but it seems to have no propshaft on it, I have been out and bought one today and fit it, but when I took the cart out they was a lot of vibration coming from what I think is the rear. So got it back to have a look under the car and noticed the rear Diff has got really hot so that I can’t keep my hand on it for more than 10 seconds or more, The propshaft bearings had a little play so think they may need doing, could you please help me, and yeah I know that I am a nugget for not looking under it to start with, Thanks
Hi Neil,
My apologies for the delay in responding.
This happens to quite a number of people, so it’s not just you!
When you replaced the prop shaft did you get a new or reconditioned viscous coupling unit (VCU), or did you use a second hand one? If you used a second hand one do you know what mileage it has done? These need replacing about every 70,000 miles so it is important to knopw what mileage they have done.
Given that the rear differential is getting hot you may have an issue with your tyres, are they all of the same make, model and size? Do they have about the same wear? It is important with a Freelander to change all four tyres at the same time with the exact same make, model and size, as there is only a 5mm tolerance in the rolling radius before it can damge the rear differential.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks Sue, I got a second hand prop with a vcu, but I intend to change the vcu in spring, after having a look the rear tyres are like new but the front are well down so will look at changing them, possibly put some all terrain’s on as I live out in the sticks and will help me in bad weather, could the tyres be making the car shake if it was putting the vcu under strain, by the way, I think I can speak for everyone you are such a big help and thank you very much for all you do for people
Hi Neil,
Apologies for the delay in replying.
With your second hand VCU just make sure the Freelander does not feel as though it is holding back on you when on full lock – it tends to be particularly prevalent in reverse.
Definitely worth changing the tyres, they could make the car shake if they are putting the VCU under strain, and if the VCU is getting hot when you drive then you are risking damage to the drive train.
Thank you for your kind words and I am happy you are finding the information helpful.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi there i brought a freelander 2.5 v6 about 5weeks ago,i drove it about 100miles, then left it rest for about a week used it on a long jounery and got 30miles before it overheated,i got it too a garage after them having it for a while and fixing the head gasket which cost me £600. when they tested it was still burning oil and running hot, the fans where kicking in high when iddleing. They are saying its the bottom of the engine which is bascily the bottom of the engine. is there a way around this?could it be something else something simple,i brought the car for £1500 and already ive spent £600 on head gasket and £200 on lpg service. i really dont want to be spending any more money on it, is there a simle fix or any advice?i know with the range rovers you could get block sealer is it?any advice is very helpful.
many thanks simon
Hi Simon,
I assume if you are burning oil then it is smoking. In which case it is likely to be either the piston rings or the valve stem seals.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a great 2000 td4 which I’ve owned and serviced for the past 5 years and couldn’t fault it up to now.
It has had anything it ever needed done including the VCU replaced and complete regular servicing.
However it has now developed an intermittent parasitic drain on the battery which can be an overnight drain.
The battery is new and it has been checked so I know that it is not the problem and the alternator is giving full charge with the engine running.
When it wouldn’t start a fortnight ago I charged the battery over night, left it for 2 days and it wouldn’t start again.
I have eliminated the alternator being the problem by charging the battery again with the alternator disconnected (battery still connected to the car so all the electrics were still working) and leaving it sitting for a week, then reconnect the alternator and it started first time…. I thought it could have been blown diodes in the voltage rectifier but its not that because the problem seams to have disappeared again.
The only thing I haven’t done since the alternator check after I recalibrated the rear window as usual, is open the tailgate and the problem seams to have been cured…fingers crossed.
I was wondering if the rear window could be the problem in some way, if it wasn’t going fully up when I close the door and some how it’s causing a drain on the battery.
Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is driving me up the wall not being able to pinpoint the battery drain problem.
By the way your site is fabulous with regards to all the information you give out.
Best regards
Dex
Hi Dex,
Sorry to hear your Freelander is driving you up the wall.
It certainly is a possibility that the rear window / door has been the cause of the problem. One of the switches for either the window or the door could have been staying on and this could have caused the drain on the battery. If it is not this then there is something which is staying on all the time, and unfortunately pinpointing the cause can involve a lot of testing.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
What a fabulous site you have. I am considering buying a 2 ltr 2003 bmw engine freelander. At the moment i have a peugeout 307cc which so far has been very reliable as i have to travel quite a ways to work. I love the freelander but its just making that step to change for reliability. Can you help with any info and known faults with these vehicles
Many thanks
Hi Jill,
Thank you, I’m pleased you have found the site useful, and congratulations on considering buying a Freelander.
The main issues with the TD4 Freelander you are considering are to make sure the viscous coupling unit (VCU) is changed every 70,000 miles – if the one you are considering buying has not had the VCU changed and has done close to or over 70,000 miles, then factor this into the price – we would charge £445 for a reconditioned VCU, bearings and fitting. The second issue is to make sure the breather filter at the rear of the engine has been changed when it is serviced. If the ervice was done by a specialist garage it should have been done, however some generalist garages do not realise this filter exists, and hence do not change it and it can cause the engine to suffocate.
The Freelanders love long journeys so it would be good for your commuting. The main thing is to keep it serviced regularly and you shouldn’t have any problems with it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I have a freelander V.6 (2002) and had issue with oil mixing with its cooling water which was resolved. The problem of the vehicle now is that after starting the engine it could not develop speed even when the trotling peddal is pressed to the limit it was only able to make 30km/hr.
Please advise on what could be the cause of the problem.
I am in Niogeria where not much is know about the problem of the vehicle
Regards,
Famous
Hi Famous,
This could possibly be a problem with your throttle pedal switch. It would, however, be better if you could put it on diagnostics as this should direct you to where the problem is.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi great site BTW
Looking at the freelander, what are pros / cons on L series diesel vs TD4?
What should I look out for on both, as going to view them this week (1998 Di and a 1002 TD4
Hi Andy,
Thank you, so pleased you found our site helpful.
The TD4 and L-series Freelanders both share the issue of the VCU needing replacement at around 70,000 miles, so if the ones you are looking for are around or above this mileage and have not had the VCU replaced (it’s not on a service schedule, so full service history does not mean it will have been changed), then please account for changing this ASAP – we would charge £445 for a reconditioned VCU, bearings and fitting, just to give you an idea of price.
With the TD4, make sure the breather filter at the rear of the engine has been changed (if it has been serviced at a Land Rover garage then this will have been done), otherwise change it as soon as possible, if it gets clogged up it can suffocate the engine.
The L-series will be a little more tractor like than the TD4, more like diesels used to be.
The L-series Freelander generally has less sensors etc. than the TD4, which really means there is less to go wrong! In our experience, the Freelander we see the least is the L-series, they tend to be the most reliable, with a very robust engine, and can go on forever. Having said that, if looked after well, and serviced properly and regularly, so can the TD4 engine – we have one that has done almost 430,000 miles!
These are both good engines, really you are looking at the simplicity of the L-series (hence can be cheaper to work on if required) verses the quietness of the TD4.
Hope this helps.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Again, many thanks Sue. This website is very informative.
Cheers
Jim
Hi Jim,
Yes, the breather filter is also known as the PCV valve filter.
Yes again, dropping the front half of the prop shaft means disconnecting the front half from the VCU and the IRD. You could remove the whole prop shaft, VCU included, but if you were broken down on the side of the road it would probably be easier to just remove the front half and carry that in the car.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
Many thanks for the response. When you refer to the engine breather filter is this also known as the PCV valve?
Regarding question 6 and dropping the front half of the prop shaft. By “dropping” do you mean disconnecting the front half from the IRD and removing it from the VCU, with the VCU still connected to the rear prop and final drive unit?
Regards
Jim
Hi
I have recently put down a deposit on a 2003 (03) 2.0 TD4 Freelander from a garage belonging to a large chain and have since found your website detailing problems with the Freelander. Although the car is 9 years old it has only done 35,500 miles.
The problem is that there is a mismatch of tyres on the vehicle. The rear tyres are different makes than each other and neither are the same make as the front axle.
The garage is giving it a 12 month mot, a service and a multipoint check before I pick it up so they should find any problems with the drive train.
My questions are:
1) If the propshaft is removed will that mean I don’t have to have all matching tyres?
2) One rear tyre has a 4s rating and one has a 6s rating, does this matter?
3) You recommend having the VCU unit changed around 70,000 miles. As this car has only done 35,500 miles can I wait until around 70,000 miles or does the age of the vehicle mean I should either change or remove it now?
4) Roughly, how long should tyres last on a Freelander? This car will have had factory fitted tyres from new but has only done 35,500 miles which suggests to me that the tyres fitted now should not have been on long. However, they are all around 5mm in tread depth which suggests that they have been on for a while. There appears to be no undue uneven tyre wear.
5) I understand the importance of fitting tyres of the same make, type and size. However, from reading your explanation of the problem it is the actual physical size of the tyres that counts. Therefore, in theory, if different makes of tyre have the same actual physical size there should not be a problem (as long as the rate of wear is equal), is this correct?
6) If the critical difference in tyres is as little as 5mm what do you do if your road wheels have only, say, 2-3 mm of tread and your spare (having not been used) has 10mm?
7) If you fit new tyres to one axle why should you put them on the rear axle? I thought the VCU only comes in to play when the front wheels start to slip and I would have thought that new tyres on the front would have made this less likely.
Regards
Jim
Hi Jim,
Congratulations on your new purchase. The TD4 Freelander’s are generally very reliable, the two main things to look out for are the drive train (which you are clearly very aware of) and making sure the breather filter at the rear of the engine is changed at the service.
With regard to your questions:
1. If you remove the prop shaft the mismatch in tyres does not matter, you can continue to drive with the current tyres.
2. We would not recommend any differences between the make, model or type of tyre when fitting them to a Freelander. You are right, however, that the issue is with the rolling radius os the tyre, and if they are all within 5mm of each other then you should not have a problem. A good way to check if your tyres are causing a problem is to drive the Freelander for a few miles then check the temperature – be careful, it could be very hot! If you cannot hold your hand comfortably on the VCU then you have an issue with your tyres, and you will need to change them or remove the prop shaft.
3. The age of the vehicle can have some effect on the VCU, however this is not common and the best indicator is the mileage – around 70,000 miles. When you have a Freelander with very low mileage, like this one, keep a check on the performance when moving on full lock in either forward or reverse gear (it usually is more apparent in reverse initially). You will feel some resistance as this is a 4×4, however it should not feel as though the brakes are on, if it does then it is time to change the VCU.
4. This is a very difficult question to answer as it depends both on the make of the tyre, the type of roads it is used on and the driving style. It does seem strange that such a low mileage vehicle has all different tyres which already appear to have been on for a while.
5. You are correct. Please refer to my answer to q2 on how to check if your tyres are causing an issue.
6. This is a big problem. The best answer would be if you need to put the spare wheel on then drop the front half of the prop shaft at the same time, hence the difference in tyre sizes is no longer an issue. If the VCU is heating up with the difference in tyre sizes it can cause damage within a few miles.
7. This is to do with the prop ratio, most of the drive is on the front wheels during normal driving conditions. Fitting new tyres to the rear, and keeping your old ones on the front, reduces the prop ratio. Fitting new tyres to the front, and keeping your old ones on the rear increase the prop ratio. Increasing the prop ratio means more stress than reducing the prop ratio.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, living in Ireland,I bought a 1999 2.0 diesel freelander last week, which had sat unused for almost a year. It drove great for first few days, then accelerator suddenly stopped working when changing down gear on a corner, no revs at all. Engine management light on every time accelerator pedal pressed.Changed pedal sensor but no better, in fact engine then started to misfire, changed fuel filter, this helped but after 2 miles revs went again (upon braking for a huge pothole) and jeep could hardly limp home, jumping all the way. Any suggestions please and thank you!!
Hi Fiona,
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Freelander.
This sounds as though it is either the diesel pump or the no. 1 injector, worth getting these checked out.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Simon,
Yes, a few do slip through the net and keep going for a lot longer, it’s rare at 104k though.
It is also possible that the previous owners have just not included it as they thought it might look like the Freelander was unreliable.
Check for any signs of oil in the water or water in the oil. Then if you do make the purchase keep a weekly check on the oil and water levels and condition – if anything does happen you want to catch it early.
The main concern would be that the previous owners got rid of the Freelander because there were signs the head gasket was going. If you are buying it from a garage then you will get a warranty which would cover this, so it would not be such a concern.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi i spoke a few weeks back, ive found a freelander 1.8 53 plate,but in the history there is no history of the head gasket being done, the garage thats selling it said that the millage on the car it should have been done. which makes sence cause ive always heared they will go at some point around 50k, the millage on the car is 104k, do a few slip throu the net and get away with not having the head done?
thanks simon
Hi Sue
I am looking for some advice on buying a Freelander.
I have seen a few for around £3000 with between 80k – 110k on the clock. Can you tell me how reliable they can be at this mileage and what model would you advise going for.
Thanks
Hi David,
Congratulations on your decision to buy a Freelander – they are great vehicles.
If you are looking for one between 80k and 110k then the primary thing you need to consider is the drive train. If the VCU has not been changed, or there is no evidence of it being changed by this mileage (or any mileage above 70k) then we would recommend changing it as soon as possible. Account for this in the purchase price (for a reconditioned VCU, bearings, fitting and VAT we charge £445, so this should give you some idea of how much to account for). Listen for any knocks or whining when you test drive it to ensure no damage has been done to any of the drive train parts. You can also test the VCU by driving it on full lock, in either forward or reverse gear and making sure it does not feel as though it is holding back (you will get some resistance as it is a 4×4 but it should not feel as though the brakes are on).
The other thing worth checking is that no strain is being put on the drive train by any mismatch on the tyres. Take the Freelander for a test drive then get underneath and touch the VCU (the bulbous piece half way along the prop shaft). Be careful as it could be hot. If the tyres are all matched then you should be able to hold your hand comfortably on the VCU, it should not be getting hot. If it is getting hot then you need to account for a full set of four tyres in with the purchase price – and change them IMMEDIATELY.
The biggest reason why people consider the Freelander unreliable is because they do not change the VCU about every 70,000 miles, and/or they fit the Freelander with mismatched tyres which strains the drive train – always change all four tyres at the same time. Without this issue Freelanders tend to be good, reliable vehicles.
With regard to which model is the most reliable then the order we would probably put them in, from most reliable to least reliable, is the old L-series diesel model; the TD4 diesel model; the 2.5 V6 petrol model then the 1.8 petrol model. One of the biggest issues with the petrol models is the cooling system. Only red coolant should be used in a Freelander, if you find one that has a different coloured coolant in it then I would avoid it, particularly if it is a petrol model. The wrong coolant can rust the engine from the inside; these particles then block up the small pipes and cause the Freelander to overheat.
With regard to the 1.8 petrol Freelander, these were produced with a single layer head gasket which was not really up to the job. With a modified multilayer head gasket fitted these problems should be overcome. A 1.8 Freelander with 80k to 110k on the clock should already have had the head gasket changed, but check this and make sure it was changed for a modified multi layer one.
With the Freelander it is a case of understanding how to look after it – regularly check the oil and water, and make sure the VCU is changed every 70,000 miles, and you should have a very reliable vehicle.
I hope this helps.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi sue,
thank you for the info a great help, looking at the 1.8 now, looks like its half the garage costs.
Thanks once again
Hi Simon,
No problem, happy to be of help. You’re right the 1.8 is half the garage costs. I hope you find what you are looking for.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks for the advice Sue,what a great wealth of info you have made available,really enjoyed reading it.
Craig
Thank you Craig, so pleased you’ve found the site interesting and informative.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Great article for me.Ive just bought a freelander td4 2005 and am enjoying it alot.It has 59000 on it but does sound abit clunky over bumps and pot holes,is this something i need to look in to?
Best regards
Craig
Hi Craig,
Congratulations on your purchase, great to hear you are enjoying it.
If you are hearing some clunking over bumps then it is worth checking it out. Is the clunking coming from the front or the rear?
If it is coming from the front check:
Engine mounts, particularly the lower tie rod end
Front drive shafts
Front suspension
If it is coming from the rear check:
Rear drive shafts
Rear suspension
Rear differential bushes
Rear sub frame
These are some of the more common issues that it could be. If you would like more help just shout.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Grant,
It is certainly possible it is the CV joints. Check the drive shafts by shaking them. If there is no play in the drive shafts then it could be worth draining the oil from the IRD to check for any metal pieces.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
Thanks for this. Knocking is definitely from the front. Car has done 94k miles. I was thinking CVs more likely?
Grant
Hi
I have a 2002 Freelander 2.5 V6 Auto. When driving with a lot of steering lock (either left or right) and anything above idle power there is a really bad knocking from under the car. Fine straight or limited turning. Any thoughts?
Hi Grant,
Does the knocking appear to be coming from the rear, centre or front? It can be difficult to tell, I know.
What mileage has your Freelander done?
If the knocking appears to be coming from the rear it may just be the rear differential centre bush. If it is coming from the centre then it may be the VCU bearings. If it is coming from the front it could be your IRD.
If your mileage is over 70,000 miles and you have no record of the VCU being changed then we strongly recommend you change the VCU as soon as possible – to the extent of removing the prop shaft immediately – before it does major damage to the drive train, and this noise could be the start of that.
Hope this helps.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi, just bought 2003 1.8 petrol Freelander which im very pleased with. Running very well but has a few small electrical problems.
Now and then one of the door sensors says that a door is open. This means that you drive with the vanity light on or worse the alarm can suddenly go off in the middle of the night. Also both back electrical windows dont work (have checked the fuse), cant hear any motor wining noise when i press either button. Before I put it in the garage I thought I might tackle the problems myself. Any tips on where i should begin fault finding. Thanks, Steve.
Hi Steven,
With regard to the back windows, first check the fuses. If the fuses are fine then check the switches, take a switch from the front and put it on the rear to see if this makes a difference. If neither of these work then you will probably need to take the panel off and replace the whole mechanism.
With regard to the door sensor this could be a door regulator. Do you get a beep when you unlock the car, before starting it up? Could be worth changing the battery on the key fob first to check that it is not a simple issue like that.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi, just looking at buying a landrover i’m looking at spending 2k on it and want it under 70k miles and about a 52/53 i have seen a few for sale but not sure what model to go for 1.8 or 2.5v6. i am looking at spending an extra £1000 on a lpg conversen. what is your advice for which is best to go for.
i kinda want the 2.5 with the extra mods but from having a bigger engine runing a lpg 1999 range rover when in the garage it cost a lot!!
many thanks
Hi Simon,
Pleased to hear you are looking at a Freelander, they are great vehicles.
If you are looking at a Freelander below 70k please be aware that at 70k you really need to change the viscous coupling unit (VCU) before it gets past it’s useable life and causes damage to the rest of the drive train. If you do happen to look at one over 70k then check if the VCU has been changed, if not then get it changed (we charge £445 including VAT for a reconditioned VCU, bearings and fitting just to give you an idea of the cost).
With a 1.8 petrol under 70k miles you also need to check that the head gasket has been replaced with the modified multi layer head gasket. If not then it is something which is worth doing before it causes any problems, and hence extra expense.
The 2.5 litre V6 is definitely a much more powerful vehicle, Nobert loves the V6, they always bring a smile to his face! If you are going to do an LPG conversion then the fuel consumption of the V6 would not be the same issue.
It is true that if you have problems with a 2.5 litre V6 the repairs will cost more than the 1.8 Freelander. With a vehicle under 70k miles you would be looking at the cam belt change at 72k miles, which on a 1.8 would be £295 including the water pump, however on a V6 you are looking at £795 including the water pump, so maintenance costs will be significantly higher. The other thing to consider is that most garages can repair a 1.8 (although make sure they really know what they are doing), however there are many garages who will not even touch the V6 due to its complexity and the tooling required.
If looked after properly we would say the V6 is possibly more reliable than the 1.8 model. The key with both these models is to keep a close eye on the water and oil levels, and if it starts using more than normal then get it seen to quickly before it causes additional damage. If, whilst you are looking at Freelanders, you see one which has anything other than the red coolant in it, then avoid it. The other coolants (or plain water) can cause rust on the inside of the cooling system, which can block the small pipes in the system and can cause them to overheat.
I don’t seem to be giving you a definitive answer here I’m afraid. What I can say is, fuel costs aside, we would personally go for the V6 rather than the 1.8, however we do not have the same issues of maintenance bills as others have.
I hope this has helped a little.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue,
I’ll try that. Could you tell me where the radiator cap is located? I can’t find it
Hi Reggie,
There is no radiator cap, you fill it from the water reservoir bottle which is situated in the far right corner of the engine bay when you are facing the engine.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have 2000 lseries diesel freelander. I have a problem with the parking lights. Everytime I step on the brake peddle the parking lights come on, I changed the bulbs but I still have the same problem.When I switch the parking lights on from the dashboard only one light from the front and rear comes on but when I step on the brakes everthing comes on.
Hi Reggie,
Change your brake light switch, which is situated under the brake pedal, this should solve the problem.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Alex,
Could you please send us the photos you have, they can be sent to sue@freelanderspecialist.com.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
Gosh very good advice, please to hear i am not the only one with problems:-)
Had 2003 gs freelander, have done 240000 miles so can’t complain. Really still going well, but have decided to change before the winter.Thinking of buying a 2010 freelander ,30000 miles on it. I have looked at a few and had the aa out with one. Fantastic service but expensive. Shouls i get them out for this vehicle though when so new and still under warranty or am i overly cautious and should use the money to pay the tax instead? Thanks, Maria
Hi Maria,
If it is still under warranty then you should be fine, just make sure it has full service history so the warranty is still valid. Also check there is nothing untoward when you drive it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
ohh Sue, I forgot to answer, the noise when turning the steering wheel seems to come from the front wheels, thanks again, Alex
Hi Sue,
Thank you, despite the worries, I have no regrets 🙂
Many thanks for your reply,
I did phone you this evening (sorry about that) but managed to speak to Nobert in the end, I’ll go into detail about that after I answered your questions 🙂
1. I can’t seem to locate any oil leak anywhere. As I have only had the car a week I wouldn’t really know the difference from the oil going up and down. However I will have to keep an eye out now. Removing the engine cover I saw no traces of oil either. It seems as if the previous owner had steamed cleaned the engine as it is all clean (I do wander if this is to hide something). My friends say I am being silly and it is just a general smell, but I never had this with any other car. The engine doesn’t overheat though!
2. Where is the whine coming from? Is it from the steering wheel or from underneath the Freelander (if underneath can you tell if it seems to come from the front, center or rear?)
3. With regards to the ticking noise, it is the electrics when I have the lights on.
4. The jittery/rumble seems fine now I looked at it with my friends (ex-service guys who used these cars). One thing I notice is when driving and then stopping, there is a sometimes a rumble. If not a rumble, the downshift is not very smooth and stutters almost as if the car is about to stall but doesn’t. It is an automatic transmission. Not sure if it is just not a perfect auto box compared to some I have used?
With regards to the very first comment about ringing you earlier… I spoke to Nobert today and was worrying about a loose cable connection hanging from underneath my car battery. It looks like it plugs into something (originally thought it was for the headlights) Nobert said this is where the cruise control connection would be if my car had it installed when buying it brand new. Can I just confirm this definitely a cable used for the cruise control? I only ask as I only saw this after I removed the engine bay cover and worry I may have pulled the cable out from somewhere by accident. On some posts on the net, people say the cruise control cables are under the driver’s seat, not in the engine bay.
Also when looking over at the engine, there was a cloudy/milky residue on the engine itself, not near the oil caps etc, so worried if this was a sign the head gasket has/is broke. Not sure if it could just be age related buildup of rubbish like rust- instead it’s white here, or even from coolant/oil/screen wash spilling when refilling the car?
The engine coolant was between max and minimum and 7 days later it is now on the min line. Surely this has gone low too soon?
Fingers crossed you can help and once again sorry for the long essay and for ringing at a late time.
I hope to hear from you soon,
Best regards,
Alex 🙂
p.s I have photos of the wire/white build up if needed to help.
Hi there,
I did speak to Nobert over the phone when getting advice about buying a freelander, and thank fully I made the purchase 🙂
I just bought a freelander v6 and loving it to death, however have noticed a few things which I hope could be nothing, but it is best to be n the safe side than allow a possible problem to get worse.
(1) I smell oil every now and then when I finish driving and park the car up. Is this normal? It does not smell like smoke, just oil. I know some people say it could be coolant but I wouldn’t have guessed it smells the same?
(2) When I turn the car steering wheel to park, I hear a whinning noise, as if a mouse is trapped in the car.
(3) I now and then hear a very low sound of clicking from within the car normall when the electrics are on.
(4) when moving and then going stationary there is a very very small jittery rumble from the engine. The engine does not shake when I pop the bonnet to look at it, if anything it makes a very very small bit of movement, perhaps a few mm’s, I couldn’t imagine it could stay 100% still could it?
I really really hope somebody could help me out there, many many thanks for your time 🙂
Hi Alex,
Congratulations on your purchase, so pleased you love it.
With regard to your questions:
1. If you are smelling oil then you must have a leak in the system somewhere. Have you noticed any drop in the oil level? If you cannot see anywhere obvious around the engine where it may be coming from it could be worth removing the undercover to see if there are any traces of oil there.
2. Where is the whine coming from? Is it from the steering wheel or from underneath he Freelander (if underneath can you tell if it seems to come from the front, centre or rear?)
3. When you say the clicking noise normally is heard when the electrics are on, which electrics are you referring to? Is this just when you turn the key, or when the lights are on, or some other electrics?
4. A small amount of movement in the engine bay is acceptable, however if you are feeling a jittering rumble then it could be worth checking the engine mounts for any weakness there.
If you can clarify on some of the questions I have asked then we will try to help you further.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
Great site, with loads of info!
I’m considering a 2005 1.8 petrol that’s on around 73k miles, i’ve checked and they have just carried out full service and changed head gasket to uprated version, timing belt and water pump. They had no notion of the VCU so i’ll be planning on changing that soon.
My questions are:
If i remove the prop for now until i can organise a new VCU is the connection points either end of the prop at the IRD and Rear Diff ok to leave open? (Also can i just remove the front part of the prop with VCU and leave the rear part there, or is it just as easy to remove the lot?)
Secondly, when i test drove the freelander, i checked the full lock fwd and rev etc and for any knocking on turning etc and all seems ok, however when reversing, the typical ‘reversing car’ noise (The whine that increases in pitch the faster you go in reverse) was very noticeable, is this normal with the FL’s? or should i be wary of something? Hopefully you know what i mean? and apologies for the rambling questions.
Many thanks
Rob
Hi Rob,
Thank you for your kind comments we are glad you have found the website useful.
You can remove the prop for now, best to take it off completely from the IRD to the rear diff, not really any more difficult than taking half of it off. There is no problem leaving both units open until you get another VCU, this is what we do with ours.
The reversing whine is louder in a Freelander than in a standard car. If, however, it really is excessive then it could be the bearings on the reverse gear.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sarah,
If you wanted a 2.0 L-series diesel it would need to be 2000 or older, as the diesels were then replaced with the TD4 BMW engine (we do have an L-series 3 door in a silver/gold colour, but it is a 1998)
No problem with being asked (bombarded) with questions, that’s what we are here for.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue – thanks for coming back so quickly (oh booo that you dont have anything currently).
I think I would prefer the 2.0 L-seies diesel having read though your comments?? and probably would prefer black, white or silver – but to be quite honest, am completely open really.
Yes, please let me know if anything changes your side and I will certainly ask (read as bombard) you with questions as I start to test drive/seriously consider.
Many thanks again!
Sarah
Hi Sue,
I am looking to buy a 2003 plate Freelander, do you have any similar for sale currently? Have just stumbled onto this site and been engrossed for the last 40 minutes. Would like to avoid as much as possible any of the potential pitfalls with the Freelander and your obvious expertise fills me with the confidence to jump in finally. I live in very hilly/cold Huddersfield and this vehicle (if I get a good one) would be a massive assett.
Many thanks in advance!
Sarah
Hi Sarah,
A very good choice for hilly / cold Huddersfield, I’m sure you would not be disappointed.
Unfortunately at the moment we do not have a suitable vehicle available, we tend to be very busy with repairs that we get little time for selling vehicles nowadays. If there is one you are looking at we are very happy to give advice on anything that may concern you, and can certainly check any purchase over for you.
I will keep my eyes and ears open for anything that may be suitable in the meantime, and let you know if I come across anything – do you have any preference petrol / diesel, colour etc.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sean,
If the VCU temperature is fine and there is no holding back then you should be fine. We would not recommend grinding the damper off.
With regard to changing the VCU at 70,000 miles this is advice for EVERYBODY. The VCU is a sealed unit with a viscous fluid inside. As with all fluids over time they become thick and this means the prop shaft will not rotate as fast as it should and puts a strain on the drive train. What happens next is that the drive train breaks at the weakest link, usually the IRD – not an expense you would want!
The price of a reconditioned VCU is £275 incl. VAT and the VCU bearings are £65 for the pair. UK shipping is £35 which includes shipping the reconditioned unit to you and your old unit back to us. We also have new VCU’s for £395.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thankyou for the reply Sue, I touched it after 3 miles and it was fine, full lock seams fine also, what is the price of a whole VCU unit? As for the damper it just looks as though it had kinda been glued on an the glue has just came off. I am having no problems so far with it I was just wondering if it is a serious matter? Some people just grind there’s off? As for changing the VCU at 70,000 miles is that an absolute essential or only of you have a little trouble because to be honest I hardly do any miles so it will be years before I get to that and is that advice only for people who are using there landrover regularly? Thankyou
Hi Sean,
Congratulations on your purchase!
The question we would ask would be why the damper came off in the first place. If you turn the Freelander on full lock in either forward or reverse does it feel as though the brakes are on? You will get some resistance, however this should not be as though the brakes are on. If this is the case then, although you are under 70,000 miles you should be thinking of changing the VCU – make sure you change it at 70,000 miles anyway.
Another test worth doing is to drive the Freelander for a few miles then touch the VCU – be careful though, it could be hot. If it is too hot to hold your hand on it then you have a problem with mismatched tyres, and this could have affected the damper.
With regard to the exhaust back box it will be the outer skin that has rusted, could be worth going over it with a wire brush.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello again Sue! Iv finally got my Freelander.. Already a problem. I heard a loud knocking sound and what it was, was the Damper on the VCU, iv manage to push it back on and it seams very solid now, mechanic friend said it may never come off again and it isn’t anything major? What is your opinion on that?, also there is a fair bit of rust underneath and on exhaust back box. But no holes etc, do you reccomend me going over it with a wire brush? Also is there anything else i should be looking / listening out for when driving ( Freelander 1.8XEI Station Wagon, 2006 Reg and 63k milage) Thankyou. Sean
I am new to the LR ownership (V6 Freelander) and it seems perfect for us and our Dogs.Great service history with only a few niggles to fix. My rear window seems to have a mind of its own though and goes up and down erratically, is this normal/comman?
Cheers.
Hi Barry,
Congratulations on your new purchase, they certainly are perfect for dogs.
With regard to the rear window, sometimes these can get a little messed up, your best thing is to recalibrate it. The procedure is:
1. Disarm the alarm system.
2. Disconnect your Freelander battery.
3. Wait for 5 seconds.
4. Reconnect your battery.
5. The tailgate window will automatically go down completely.
6. Put your key in the ignition and turn to the ‘ignition’ position.
7. Using the tailgate window control on the dashboard, press and hold until the tailgate window is fully up.
8. If you get a warning buzzer then the calibration has failed, otherwise that’s it, your tailgate window is recalibrated.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Looking to buy 2002 1.8 petrol. Have had a chance to borrow it a few days before I decide. Problem is that there is very little power, struggles up hill, hard to maintain 80 kmh with a small incline. Can sit in 5th gear with high revs but no acceleration. I took it into a local garage and they hooked it up to a computer but found no error messages. Little service history, so not sure what major parts have been changed. What could be the most probable cause. Great site by the way.
Hi Steven,
Good to hear you are considering buying a Freelander. The problem you are describing sounds very much like dirt in the fuel canister situated in the fuel tank. It would need removing, cleaning and replacing.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Lindani,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
This sounds as though it could be your cam shaft sensor or your crank shaft sensor. The best thing would be to put it on diagnostics to determine which is the problem.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
thank you. everything you told me is ok. even heard a lot of loud sound when moving. and when I press the HDC button nothing happens. Do you know where my nearest service center. Thank you.
Hi Dimce,
Unfortunately I don’t know any service centres in your area. If you go to a general garage who has a good diagnostic machine then they should be able to give you the codes to identify the problem. If the codes do not clearly point to the problem then let us know what they are and we will do our best to help.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
good day. I am from Macedonia and I bought from Freelander 1.8i 270 000 km.on past has only one problem always holy lamp with a red đip like to go down. thank you
Hi Dimce,
Is the light the one with the car going downhill? If so then this is your hill descent control (HDC) light. It could be a problem with your brake light switch (situated under the brake pedal) – are your brake lights working? It may also be a loose connection with the wires at the gear lever, so these could be worth checking. If it is neither of these you may be best to have it put on diagnostics, if the error is not clear from the fault codes let us know what they are and we will try to identify the problem. Make sure your HDC button (on the gear lever) is not pressed on.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hello.kindly help.l have a landrover freelander 2001 model v6.the can has been having problems to start especially in the morning.it starts on the second attempt.after that, the whole day it would be starting fine.today it has failed to start, what could be the problem.fuel filter was recently changed.
kindly assist
hello.kindly help.l have a landrover freelander 2001 model.it cannot start.what could be the problem.
kindly assist
thanx for your help Sue, i will do it as you said, your site is really helpful, thanx again
That’s good Sal, worth checking the drive shaft then.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi Sue, thank you very much for your answer, i think it was genuine Land Rover steering rack as he did show me papers where he bought it and also the way he did converted it
hi Sue,
i just bought used freelander td4 that has been converted to lhd, everything is perfect on the car except the sound when im changing the gear from first to second and also it started to making some noise from front left wheel when turning in corners, what do you think it could be, thank you very much
Hi Sal,
Congratulations on your purchase, I’m sure it will give you lots of fun.
With regard to the noises you are getting, was the steering rack used in the conversion a genuine Land Rover one? Some Convertors use standard car steering rack which can be noisy (and even dangerous). You can also check the drive shafts for excessive play.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
– Correction **Head gasket. Sean
Hello Sue, Great info by the way, I am just looking for abit of advice/opinion, I am picking up my Landrover Freelander 1.8 XEI Petrol in 2 days time, It has 62K miles, is it essential to get the wa gasket replaced at 70k? Also I did not test drive the vehicle, so when I drive off what things should I look for? Also when I opened the boot door the rear window came down a little bit automatically is this normal or a fault? He is servicing and giving the vehicle an MOT before i pick it up, surely it won’t be dodgy if he’s willing to pay for that for me? Thank you, Sean
Hi Sean,
Congratulation on your new purchase, I’m sure you are going to enjoy it.
It is not essential to replace the head gasket at 70,000 miles, however if the head gasket has not been changed for the modified multi level head gasket previously then it is much cheaper to change it before it blows than once it has blown when other parts can also have been affected. We have seen the original head gaskets blow as low as 20,000 miles and others which have lasted 110,000, but ultimately thyey all tend to blow at some point, and the most common is between 60,000 and 80,000 miles. If you are not going to change it soon then make sure you check your coolant level regularly so you notice any change in coolant usage quickly and can get it seen to before it severely overhears.
Before you drive off check underneath to make sure the prop shaft is fitted. It is amazing how many people have purchased Freelanders believing they are four wheel drive only to find the prop shaft has been removed and it is only two wheel drive. Test is on full lock in both forward and reverse, you will feel more resistance than in a normal car but it should not feel as though the brakes are. If it does then this indicates you need to change the viscous coupling unit (VCU), but I would not imagine this would be a problem at 62,000, you should have another 8,000 miles before you need to change that. Listen out for any clunking or grinding from underneath when you drive, that may indicate an issue with the drive train.
Check that the colour of the coolant is red, if it is green or blue then definitely do the head gasket change sooner rather than later as it could have affected the inside of the engine.
With regard to the boot door, that is the way it should operate.
All the best, and enjoy, they are great cars.
Sue
0780 9575 421
It’s a pleasure Matt.
Your price estimate is about right. If we did the repair the HG would be £545 and the cam belt with water pump an extra £95.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Sue,
Many thanks indeed for your prompt and honest response – I’ll take your advice and get the HG replaced as soon as I can (I’m estimating £550 incl a replacement cam belt). It’s clear from your testimonials that I’ve also found a great site for advice and, ultimately, quality parts and repairs – thank you. Regards, Matt
Sue, All,
New to Freelanders and have just bought a 2001 (Y) 1.8 petrol in (surprisingly) excellent condition – 56K on the clock, no knocking or leaks and all the electrics work. New exhaust, new discs and tyres. Having now read quite a few forums, I note that the 1.8 K Series engine is renowned for HGFs!! I do not have the vehicle’s complete history, although it has been serviced every year – is there any way of telling whether the HG has ever been replaced? My Chassis is 1A320*** – I take it, this is a dread K Series engine? (Not sure when LR modified the engine to address common faults). Should I press on and get the HG replaced with the MLS HG (and do the cam belt at the same time) before it blows? Will the MLS HG solve the problem (together with regular servicing, coolant checks etc) or create more problems?
Hi Matt,
Congratulations on your purchase, I’m sure you are going to have a lot of enjoyment out of it.
Yes, this is the K-series engine. If you do not have any history of the head gasket being replaced I would tend to replace it now, rather than waiting. It is difficult to tell if it has been changed without removing the cylinder head, and once you do that then it needs to be machined anyway. Doing your cam belt at the same time is a very good idea, as, although it will be an early cam belt change, it will be cheaper than doing the cam belt on it’s own, saving around £200 which is a good way towards the head gasket replacement. If you wait until the head gasket blows it is going to cost a lot more to get the job done thoroughly (as you then also need to address all the areas which could have been affected by overheating etc.)
Together with regular servicing and general vehicle care we find the MLS head gasket does solve the problems.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thank you Sue – I think I will have a look at that – plus I will make sure I keep tyre pressures the same and check them regularly.
Thanks Philip.
Hi Sue again, My garage has just done year service to the car and noted that the inner edge of the rear tyres has worn a lot more than the rest of the tyre? – It shows because the tyres have only done around 4K miles so look quite new? the garage have suggested it could be the VCU as they think its only got around 3-5K miles left in it? just wondering is this a common fault or suspension issue? what do you think?
Thanks again. Philip.
Hi Philip,
This certainly could be the VCU, since you have done about 77,000 miles this is actually beyond the mileage we would recommend changing it at, which is 70,000 miles.
Also worth checking that your VCU is not getting hot, after a short journey try touching the VCU (be careful it could be very hot), if it is too hot to hold your hand on then you have a mismatch in your tyres. Get the VCU changed first then check the temperature of it again, if it is still getting hot then you may need to replace the rear tyres (same make, type and size as the front ones).
Also make sure you are using the correct tyres pressure and that it is the same all round. Land Rover have changed their minds on this a couple of times, from 30 psi to 26 psi and then back to 30 psi, so a maximum of 30 psi should be applied.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi there, im planning on buying freelander that has been converted to the left hand drive, td4, would you recommend me doing it as i want to take it to the eu and also what shall i be looking for when i am buying it, i mean how to know if there is any problems with that car as i have never had any 4×4 before, thank you very much
Hi Sal,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
If you are buying a Freelander that has been converted then check they have used an original Land Rover steering rack. Some of the conversions are done using the steering rack from a car which, at best is noisy and at worst is positively dangerous.
With the TD4 Freelanders the main two things to check are that the viscous coupling unit has been changed around 70,000 miles, if not then budget in for changing this (we charge £445 for a reconditioned VCU, bearings and fitting, so that will give you some idea of the price). Also check if the breather filter at the rear of the engine has been changed at the last service. If you are unsure then get it changed as it can cause the engine to suffocate – we would charge £80 for this, so again it gives you an idea of price.
Good luck with your new purchase.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks Linda, Yes it is 4×4 and the VCU is fine too, i also got all 4 tyres replaced. I have one issue though, when i try to apply pedal break on 2nd gear(i mean at slow speed) i hear a small sound at the end of complete stop.
Is this normal or something serious.
Thanks
Gauty
Hi Gauty,
What sort of sound is it?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi i have a thumping sound from the rear, sounds about the centre,but could be more to the left, when turning tight corners slowly left or right, no problem on fast corners its a 1998 diesel L series
Hi John,
Apologies for the delay in responding.
It is worth checking the following:
– Rear differential bushes
– the rear subframe for cracks where it attaches to the chassis
– the viscous coupling unit (VCU), which should be changed approximately every 70,000 miles.
If none of these are the cause of the problem then please let us know and we will think again.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thanks a lot Sue!. I bought a freelander TD4 S(Helly hansen Series -2004, at 108000 km) a few days back,The freelander looks good and runs fine ..just loving it. The only problem is i dont have the revision history of the vehicule,although my owner assures me. I would like to know if its on 4wd.how can i check it??
Thanks in advance
Hi Gauty,
If you look underneath your Freelander, running from the front to the back, parallel to the exhaust system, you will see the prop shaft with the VCU half way along (this is a bulbous piece of metal). If that is there, all the way from the front (connecting to the IRD / transfer box) to the back (connecting to the rear differential) then you have 4WD.
Just remember that by about 120,000 km you should be replacing the VCU with a new or reconditioned unit otherwise it would cause a problem with the rest of your drive train.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
We have had so many probs with our Freelander. Last bill set us back £1000 and now we have white smoke coming out of the exhaust, lack of power and a ‘rocking’ when being driven. Have checked filters. Any suggestions please.
Hi Linda,
If your Freelander is petrol it could be the piston rings or the valve stem seals. If your Freelander is diesel then it could be the MAF sensor or the breather filter at the rear of the engine.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
It’s a pleasure Philip, I hope you have your Freelander back in four wheel drive soon.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thank you Sue for this advise and your time. I will contact my garage to see if they can supply me a new VUC, as I want to keep it 4wd.
Plus the service info – I can now budget for this..
Yours Philip.
Ps i’ve saved your site now so I can always refer to it…***
Hi Sue, this is a very informative site full of very useful information. I wish I’d found it before I purchased my Freelander 2002, 1.8s. I have to say this is the only site that doesn’t slate the freelander, and only give really good advise. I have had the Freelander for nearly 1yr and it runs great. Its done around 77K miles and I’m not sure if the ‘VCU’ unit has been changed, so I think I will ask my local Land Rover specialist garage (Terrain Vehicles) for costs etc. It did loose some cooling liquid in the start but the garage sorted that out for me. At the time they checked the Cylinder Head and did a pressure test, but did not replace the cylinder head gasket. Its been fine since. I check the car every week just to be sure. Another thing if you can advise – a yearly service what would you expect the cost to be? we done about 5K miles.
Another thing the cam belt was changed at 55K miles by previous owner, how long do the last?
Again a great site***
Thank you.
Philip.
Hi Philip,
Thank you very much for your kind words on our site, really pleased you have found it helpful.
Very wise to change the VCU at this stage, if your garage do not supply the VCU’s we can supply a reconditioned one for £275 incl. VAT or a new one for £395 incl. VAT. and can ship direct to your garage if required.
Keep up those weekly checks and if you ever get a cooling issue you will pick it up before it becomes a really big issue – so well done there.
With regard to the annual service, since your mileage is low you will be following the service schedule according to age rather than mileage (as the service is every 12 months OR every 12,000 miles). Following the Land Rover service schedule for the Freelanders all the service prices can be found at http://www.freelanderspecialist.com/freelander-service/freelander-service-schedule-1-8-litre-petrol. So your next service should be a 10 year service which would be a B Service with the fuel filter changed (we would charge £220).
With the cam belt this requires changing every 6 years or 72,000 miles, whichever comes sooner. So you will need to change yours again 6 years after the previous change.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi there – purchased a 1.8 Petrol 02 – in Feb because my BMW just doesn’t like snow and ice and as a utility vehicle really but 3 months on and out of warranty i have been struck with the seemingly common drivetrain problems. Had to be recovered from motorway following a series of crunching noises culminating in what felt like a flat tire but obviously not. My question is – will the freelander be ok/effective on snow/ice with just the 2 front wheel drive come the winter.
CB
Hi CB,
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Freelander. In the winter the Freelander will generally do better than most standard cars in the snow when in two wheel drive. Obviously it will not be as effective as in four wheel drive but we get through most winters keeping ours in 2 WD and only adding the prop shaft when things are extreme or when we are in a hilly area in snow.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I have a TD4 diesel. Recently it has been difficult to start sometimes. It turns over fine (no problem with the battery), but seems to stall. Other times it starts just fine.
When it is running, it runs with no problems. Oh, and this happens when hot or cold engine.
Thanks for any thoughts.
Phil
Hi Phil,
This sounds like it is a problem with your low pressure fuel pump. If your Freelander is pre 2003 this is located in the engine bay. If it is post 2003 it is located under the wheel arch.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
It’s a pleasure Rua.
Even though it is a routine head gasket replacement make sure they skim and pressure test the head, and of course replace it with the modified multi layer head gasket and not another single layer one.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
Hi Sue, thanks so much for your advice. I’m going to get the head gasket and timing belt done at the same time as advised and will also get them to remove the Prop Shaft until the Autumn.
I’m hoping they can do all that for less then €1K and considering the window regs have all just been replaced I’m hoping that means trouble free Freelander motoring for a few years!
Many thanks,
Rua
Hi Sue
I’ve had a few problems with my 05 plate 1.8 petrol freelander. Head gasket went, had it fixed, drove lovely for about two weeks then started to feel not quite right. Engine malfunction light came on (amber) took it back to garage again. He said that the head has gone again, coolant is leaking into the 1st chamber and that it may be the cylinder head has cracked! Could you tell me if the garage should have noticed the cylinder head crack when they replaced the 1st head gasket, he said it didn’t need skimming at the time ??? It’s still in the garage awaiting the dreaded news 🙁 needed an idea as don’t want to be taken for a fool that keeps handing over money!! Also it has done 85k miles not sure that vcu has ever been replaced, is that easily checked? And would that explain why the car feels as though it’s lacking in power or pulling back sometimes, with knocking/ clunking noise when driving up a pot holed driveway. Not marvellous at pulling horse trailer either lately???? Don’t want to give up on it. Sorry my post is SO long !!!
Thanks regards
Jo
Hi Jo,
Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Freelander.
The head gasket should NEVER be replaced without skimming and crack testing the head, these are aluminium heads and can warp slightly just in the process of removing them, and if the Freelander has overheated there is always a chance the head could have cracked. If the issue was with the cylinder liners then I could understand how they could miss these, these are very difficult to test.
With regard to your VCU, if your Freelander is holding back on you, particularly on full lock either in forward or reverse gear, then it needs changing. If you are getting clunks and knocking then get you prop shaft off as soon as possible, this will make sure you do not do any more damage to the drive train. You will still be able to drive your Freelander but it will be front wheel drive only. DO NOT drive it any more with its current VCU on, if you have to drive it before you can get a replacement unit make sure the prop shaft is removed.
I hope this helps, if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to ask.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue,
I’m delighted to have stumbled across your site, it’s really helpful and informative. I recently bought a 2003 Freelander ‘S’ 1.8 petrol. I got a very good price on it and I now realise that was because it appears that the Head Gasket, Timing Belt and Viscous Coupling unit have never been changed despite there being 95,000 miles on the clock.
I unfortunately have very limited funds to work with at the moment so I just wanted to get your advice on which of those 3 parts I should try sort first and if it’s surprising to you that the car is still running despite none of those parts having been replaced yet after 95k?!
May I ask, if the car has rarely been used in 4×4 mode, does that effect the life span of the VCU?
On a side note I do love my Freelander, it’s a great drive!
Thanks for your help,
Rua Meegan (Ireland)
Hi Rua,
Congratulations on your purchase, I’m sure you are going to have a lot of fun with it.
The advice to change your VCU at 70,000 miles is based on experience of Freelanders which have been used under normal conditions, so predominantly on road and not off road driving. So yes, your VCU is definitely due for changing. The problem, as I am sure you are aware by now, is the amount of damage that can be done to the drive train if this is not replaced in a timely manner.
If the head gasket has never been changed then you would find it cheaper to do this before it blows rather than waiting for it to blow, and with a single layer head gasket we would expect it to blow, most go by about 70,000 miles but we have seen some which have lasted until 110,000 miles.
With regard to the timing belt, this was due to be changed at 72,000 miles. The big problem is if the timing belt breaks it could destroy your whole engine, so it is definitely worth the routine maintenance of changing it.
With limited funds it is a case of weighing up the benefits of avoiding problems compared with ending up with an unplanned for expense. If the timing belt is changed at the same time as the head gasket then it will be a much cheaper job than changing it on its own if your funds will stretch to it.
What I would recommend if possible would be to:
1. Change the head gasket and timing belt together now. As an indication of costs for a standard head gasket replacement we would charge £545 plus an extra £95 for the timing belt, compared to £295 if you had the timing belt done on its own.
2. Remove the prop shaft (which includes the VCU) so you cannot cause any damage to the drive train, and replace this when you have the funds to replace the VCU. This will mean the Freelander will be operating in front wheel drive – so if you have bought the it for off roading this is not going to be a good solution for you – and will run fine, particularly during these warmer months. We generally run our Freelanders without the prop shaft and we replace it if required when the weather is bad and we need the four wheel drive capability.
If you require the four wheel drive capability then I would suggest you:
1. Change the VCU first.
2. Have the timing belt inspected to make sure there is no obvious signs that it may snap at any point soon – but make this your second priority.
3. Keep a very close eye on your water and oil levels (making sure you only use red coolant and not blue or green), and if your Freelander starts using more water than usual get it seen to as soon as possible.
I hope this helps.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue, great comments i this site! Been searching for my problem but still no success.. I have a 1.8 2001 freelander, vcu has gone when we bought it so I dropped the prop off and is currently in 2wd. Been running it for around 2 months like this and is fine but now experiencing a noise when pulling of harsh on full lock right, it’s a loud grinding noise and vibrates the car and the orange TC light indicates on the dash, soon goes once picked up a little speed and changed into 2nd.
Thank you
Sonny
Hi Sonny,
It is possible that some damage could have been done to the IRD unit prior to the VCU being removed, and over time this has become worse. However, before going down that route I would check your drive shafts as it seems much more likely that the problem could be there.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
im about to buy a used land rover freeland AWD SE3 for my first car and im not sure if there are any particular things to look for since it has 77,000 miles on it already.?
Hi Christian,
AWD SE3 – if this is a registration number my system does not recognise it.
If the Freelander has done 77,000 miles you need to check if the viscous coupling unit (VCU) has been replaced. These should be replaced around every 70,000 to avoid damage to the rest of the drive train. If it has not been replaced you should account for the cost of replacing it as soon as possible in the purchase price (for a reconditioned viscous coupling unit, bearings and fitting we charge £445 including VAT).
If it is a 1.8 petrol Freelander check that the head gasket has been replaced for a modified multi-layer head gasket, if not, then again account for replacing this as soon as possible, the single layer head gaskets will blow at some point so it is cheaper to replace it before this happens. Our standard head gasket replacement is £545.
If it is a 2.0 Diesel TD4 (the BMW engine (2000 – 2006) then check that the breather filter at the rear of the engine was changed at the last service (if serviced by Land Rover specialists then this should have happened, if serviced by a general garage they can sometimes miss this and if it gets blocked it can suffocate the engine).
Make sure the Freelander has red coolant in it, not the blue or green – if not get it flushed out and changed for the red.
These are great vehicles, I am sure you will enjoy it once you have purchased it. If there is anything you are concerned about just get in touch.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Andy,
If the breather filter has not been changed recently get it changed immediately (should not be an expensive job and should be changed at every service).
The best thing would be to have it put on diagnostics to determine where the issue is. As well as those things previously mentioned it is worth checking the camshaft and crankshaft sensors.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi sue, andy here from feb 16th, thanks for the advice, problem went away for a few weeks then back again. after further attention whilst driving the problem occurs when putting the power on when coming out of the corner in slightly too high a gear(i.e. should be in 2nd but doing it in 3rd), to check this when cruising in 3rd I have changed up into 5th and put my foot down, this instantly brings up engine warning light, and limp home mode.
Will try disconnecting the maf sensor as you suggest. also fuel filter changed 3 months ago as part of trying to rectify the problem. not sure if they replaced this breather filter you’ve mentioned, I’ve certainly not heard of it before! once again thanks for all of your help…. andy
Hi Sue, your information here is fantastic! I’m looking to buy a Freelander and viewed one today which I like. However it makes occasional clunking sounds from the rear when reversing or pulling away hard. My first thought is rear diff mounts, but I think the owner said they were replaced recently. If it’s not them what do you suggest it might be and will it be a costly fix? Many thanks in advance! Nick
Hi Nick,
Thank you very much for your kind comments, so pleased you have found the site useful.
If the clonking is not caused by the rear differential mounts then it could very well be a crack in the rear subframe. Generally you can get this welded for about £50 so it’s not a big issue.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi, sunroof stuck open on my freelander, motor is working, left hand runner wants to shut but the right hand is jammed. do i just replace the right hand runner and a few pointers please.
do i have to drop the haead lining etc.thanks Baz.
Hi Baz,
The Freelander sunroof can be a bit of a nightmare when it goes wrong. You should be able to replace just the right hand runner, but they are not easy to deal with. To do a proper job you would need to take the whole sunroof off which does mean removing the headlining.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue. Do you currently have any Freelanders for sale? Thanks and regards. Ed
Hi Ed,
Thank you for your enquiry. We do have some here which are not quite ready for sale but could be sorted fairly quickly. What type of Freelander are you looking for? Currently we have a diesel L-series, some Petrol 1.8’s and Petrol 2.5 V6’s. If you can let me know roughly what age, budget and spec. you are looking for I will let you know what we have.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Pls advice have this problem:FAULTS WITH CAR ARE SUN ROOF INOP. AND AUTO GEARBOX HAS INTERMITENT PROBLEM with my freelander:2001 LAND ROVER FREELANDER V6I ES AUTO PETROL
Hi I G,
The Freelander sunroof tends to be a problem. Is it attempting to open – i.e. can you hear the motor operating? If it is attempting to open then getting stuck it could be one of the cables or tracks, in which case the best thing is generally to find a working sunroof and replace it – or just take out the fuse and leave it closed! We have tried repairing these with the kits before, however it is not at all easy!
With regard to your gearbox what sort of intermittent problem does it have?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
hi, i am new here so please be understanding,i intented to buy a freelander 1.8 from 2001-2003( i saw on different sites good prices)i want to buy that kind a car and exchange the petrol with lpg to , how many problems can i have after and how much it can be the cost of an lpg installation.Thank you very much!
Hi Nikolas,
Thank you for your enquiry, and apologies for the delay in responding, we’ve been having some network problems but thankfully they are sorted now (fingers crossed!)
Changing the Freelander to LPG is not something we do ourselves, so unfortunately I really do not know how much this would cost. The costs can be very varied depending where you go to have the conversion done. We did run an LPG Freelander for some time and had it checked over by A&T in Sudbury (http://www.atlpgconversions.co.uk/) who were very helpful, so it could be worth giving them a call.
The Freelanders are great vehicles so I’m sure you will be very happy with whatever you buy. Just make sure, when it is the 1.8 you are buying, that the head gasket has been changed for the multi-layer head gasket (or budget for changing this as soon as you get it if it has not already been done), and if it has done 70,000 + miles, as with all Freelander 1’s, you will need to change the viscous coupling unit to avoid damage to the rest of the drive train.
When you find the one you want (and we do have some available), if you have any questions please get in touch, we are always here to help.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hi Sue
I am engrossed on the blog. I have just bought a Freelander TD4 2005 with 57500 miles on the clock & just serviced, I called there to check & the crankshaft breather filter was changed at the last service (thank you!) I am wanting to prepared for my next service because from my reading it looks like I will need to change the VCU What else will I need for the next service (approx 67000 miles) Thank you very much
Kerrie
Hi Kerrie,
Congratulations on your purchase! I’m sure you are going to love it.
The service schedule for the TD4 Freelander states that at 60,000 miles, in addition to a standard A service, the fuel filter should be changed, and if it is automatic also the automatic gearbox oil. Since it was serviced close to 60,000 miles check if they changed the fuel filter or not (if not then it should be changed at the next service). The 72,000 service is a B service with the coolant and brake fluid changed, so at your next service it would be as well to have these changed.
You are wise to change the VCU earlier rather than later, 67,000 miles will only be 3,000 miles away from when we would recommend it is changed – it will then last you for another 70,000 miles.
In the meantime if you have any questions or require any advise on your Freelander please do not hesitate to contact us.
All the best, and happy motoring!
Sue
Hi Sue,
Greetings from Guatemala in Central America. First of all, thank you for sharing tips and advice for those who are thinking in getting a Freelander. I have a question: Does the 2.5 V6 petrol Freelander engine (models 2004-2005) have issues with head gasket as well as the 1.8 L petrol? If answer is yes, does the same routine and advice applies to it or it requires a differente multilayer gasket?
Hi Ronald,
Oh Guatemala, what a beautiful place to be (not that I’ve ever been fortunate enough to go there!)
No, the 2.5 V6 Freelanders do not have the same head gasket issues of the 1.8 Freelander. You may hear a lot about head gasket issues with the V6 Freelander but it is for completely different reasons than the 1.8, and often very avoidable.
The issue with the 2.5 V6 Freelander is that the thermostat housing and associated pipes are plastic and prone to disintegration. If this is left and nothing is done about it then it will blow the head gasket. If a V6 starts to lose more water than normal (hence the reason for checking the water level every week) then it needs to be seen to before it causes big damage, and the thermostat housing and pipes are one of the first places to look.
The other issue that can cause problems with the V6 Freelander is if the wrong coolant is used – always use red coolant in these vehicles. With the wrong coolant the things rust from the inside and rust particles can block the oil coolers, hence causing the Freelander to overheat and blow the head gasket.
So if you make sure you use the right coolant (red) and check your water regularly, and act quickly if it uses more than normal, you should not have any issues. The Freelander V6 is a great car.
All the best,
Sue
+44-780-9575-421
My problem, ’99 freelander 2.0 diesel, when accelerating in a straight line from stopped in first gear only, clunk,clunk,clunk? Coming from left and that is the only time it happens. Slipped clutch and accelerated in second gear from stop, nothing. I’m thinking driveshaft, right? Or “gulp” IRD?? Only happens under drivetrain load. Also it is currently in 2wd mode as my first thought was u joint, and removed thx any help would be awesome before I spend my kids college fund replacing good parts:)
Hi Benn,
It is certainly worth checking the drive shafts as this could very well be the problem. If it is not the driveshafts, you can check the IRD but it sounds more like the gearbox than the IRD (a cheaper job if you just replace the gearbox with a good used unit, usually around £150). To check the IRD try turning on full lock in forward and reverse, to the right and to the left, if the IRD has a problem you would generally hear the clonking.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Dave, I just did this on an ’02, with a flexible drill bit extension you access the four screws that hold the bottom of the tailgate plastic on. Then pull from the bottom to remove plastic. Remove latch cover(pain), push actuator downward with screwdriver. Hope this helps:)
Thank you very much for this Benn, it is a pain of a job when the rear door will not open so I’m sure you will be helping many people with this description of how to do it.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Hello Sue,
Please advice which one is the best to buy from PETROL 1.8 Ltr Engine or 2.0 DIESEL Engine considering the future cost of maintaining it because people continue to discourage me not to waste my money on vehicle that will not last 2-3 yrs (I mean Buying used)
As a specialist on this type of car pls I need your candid advice before I commit myself to buy, although love to have one and I like to change it to LHD to use in Nigeria. (Africa).
Hi Muyiwa,
Good to hear you are looking for a Freelander. In the Freelander 1 models there are four different engines, the 1.8 petrol engine, the 2.5 V6 petrol engine, the 2.0 L-series diesel engine (from 1997 to 2001) and the 2.0 BMW TD4 diesel engine (2001 – 2006).
One thing common to all of the models is the issue of the drive train. Unfortunately the service schedule for Freelanders does not state that the viscous coupling unit (VCU) on the drive train needs replacing about every 70,000 miles to avoid damage to the rest of the drive train. Hence many people do not change this part in a timely manner. So, whichever Freelander you purchase, if it has done about 70,000 miles or more you should make sure the VCU has been changed, or get it replaced before exporting it.
Each of the different engines gives different benefits and issues.
The 1.8 petrol engine is fuel efficient and easier to work on if the specialist garages are not available in your area of Nigeria. The issue they tend to have is with regard to the head gasket. All Freelander 1.8′s were manufactured with a single layer head gasket. This will blow usually by about 70,000 miles. If the head gasket on a Freelander you are considering purchasing has not already blown it is worth getting it replaced with the modified multi layer head gasket before exporting it (it is cheaper to do this before it blows rather than waiting for it to go). If the head gasket has already been replaced check that a multi layer head gasket has been used and then you should not have further problems, otherwise treat is as though the head gasket has not been done.
The 2.5 V6 model is a very complex engine. It has great power – can really put a smile on your face – and is fantastic for towing. However, if there is not a specialist garage in Nigeria to service and repair this model then I would not recommend it, as it is far more complex than the 1.8.
The 2.0 L-series model – these are the older diesel Freelanders – is generally fantastic. They are very reliable, we get less of these in for repair than any other model; it is very fuel efficient, and for a diesel mechanic it should not cause a problem. It has less sensors and electronics on it than the other models, and hence you don’t get the same headaches in finding parts and requiring specialist diagnostic equipment. It does sound much more like a diesel than the TD4 Freelander, a little more tractor like, but it is a good solid model.
The 2.0 TD4 Freelander has a 2.0 litre BMW engine. These are quieter than the L-series however they do have a lot more sensors to deal with, so in Nigeria if anything goes wrong parts could be an issue. The main reason we see the TD4 models is because when they have been serviced the breather filter has not been changed (generalist mechanics often do not realise this even exists as it is tucked away out of sight) and this then suffocates the engine and causes catastrophic damage. So if you do decide on a TD4 make sure you take some breather filters with you, and if there is no evidence that it has been changed at the last service get it changed before you go.
I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to ask. We do have some Freelanders available for sale at times, so if we can help in supplying one we would be happy to.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Dear Sue,
Please could you advice which one is the best to buy from PETROL 1.8 Ltr Engine or 2.0 DIESEL Engine considering the future cost of maintaining it because people continue to discourage me not to waste my money on vehicle that will not last 2-3 yrs (I mean Buying used)
As a specialist on this type of car pls I need your candid advice before I commit myself to buy, although love to have one and I like to change it to LHD to use in Nigeria. (Africa).
Engine warning light on a 03 td4 freelander, Any ideas anyone, the garages haven’t a clue and bills of £250 so far.!!!! the engine warning light keeps coming on, normaly when going round a corner or bend, then it goes into limp home mode, turn the engine off and it normally 9/10 times starts straight away or turns over no fire first time, but always starts 2nd time, diagnosis machine says top rail sensor. sounds like something to do with liquids to me?. so far garage changed fuel press regulator for £250 (inc lbr) any help would be great, thanks
Hi Andy,
Try driving the Freelander with the MAF sensor disconnected and see if this stops the problems. If the problem does not reoccur then change the MAF sensor.
Check the intake air temperature sensor which is on the inlet manifold to see if it is clogged up with dirt.
Has the fuel filter been changed recently? If this is clogged up it would be starving the engine of fuel.
Let us know if none of this sorts out the problem and we will think again.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Looking for four cylinder diesel injector pump for freelander .
Hi Junior,
What year is your Freelander? Are you looking for a used unit?
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I have a 1.8 freelander S reg. The only problem I have is I can not open the rear tailgate the window works fine when you press the handle it moves down a inch or so , to clear the tailgate surround. However nothing else happens there is no noise from the handle because its closed i can not get into the workings of the handle or door. Has anybody got any ideas.
Hi Dave,
It could be that a wire in the door mechanism has snapped. You would need to try to get the door cover off from inside the Freelander (since the door will not open) to check these.
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
I bought 2004 HSE freelander and although i love it i hat the bloody thing,i have had new diesel pump,all the wires snapped so i had to replace all with new in the doors,new alternator, o and the sat nav packed in 2 weeks after the warranty and landrover would not help so that has not worked for 7 years,great in bad weather and really good in snow,i paid 24 k in 2004 new and value today at 65k miles is 6 k so there you are.would i recommend ,
Hi Ricky,
Sorry to hear you have had so many problems with your Freelander. If you are still keeping it don’t forget to change your viscous coupling unit (VCU) at around 70,000 miles (this is not on the Land Rover service schedule) to avoid having catastrophic damage to your drive train that will certainly make you hate it for life!
All the best,
Sue
0780 9575 421
Thank you so much for your good advice.
GOOD LUCK
KAVIDAS
It’s a pleasure Kavidas, glad you found it useful.
All the best,
Sue
Best of luck with your Freelander purchase David, they are great vehicles so I’m sure it will give you lots of enjoyment.
All the best,
Sue
thanks for the advice on what to look out for before buying a freelander. i havnt bought one yet but i hav read a lot of user reviews that raised a lot of questions most of which u have succeeded in answering. i realli love freelanders despite their problems and i intend to buy one with the bmw diesel engine.